The Case For: The Niche Vintage Three-watch Collection

The next entry into our series addressing the watch community’s age-old challenge: the three-watch collection.

If you missed our first foray into the hot world of three-watch collections, check out our dive into making a case for a classic vintage collection here. In that article, we landed on some icons that each defined an era and definitely stood the test of time (and will continue to do so). In this entry, we’re making a case for a niche vintage three-watch setup.

Photo courtesy of Rolex Forums

First, back to the philosophy of the three-watch collection (can we call it the 3WC?). Collecting as a hobby is, by nature, the accumulation of things that follow a particular pattern. For some of us, this hobby can quickly fill up the old watch box, and choosing the watch to wear every day is either a source of pain via deliberation or pain via knowing that some sweet gems in the back of the box never get worn as much as your daily beater. The choice to pare your collection down to just three watches in the rotation (or start anew with that number in mind) is a difficult but interesting challenge for us watch nerds, which is why we’ve started this series.

First up, the niche everyday watch

If the iconic Rolexes, Omegas and Cartiers aren’t to your liking and you’re craving something you don’t see on other people’s wrists, we recommend looking at vintage Zodiac Sea Wolf watches. Yes, we’re biased as hell — we wrote a piece on the history of these amazing watches a little while ago — but we’re biased for good reason. 

These watches are sexy. In the Zodiac family, not only is there a satisfyingly wide selection of models to peruse in your hunt, each model holds a sea of unique colorways that you really don’t find on vintage models from any other brand. While they’re a serious piece that looks fantastic and maintains the shaping of more coveted models from Rolex and others, they’re also way undervalued at the moment. 

They look cool on a NATO or leather strap, even better if you find one on a bracelet, and they perfectly balance niche looks with everyday sensibilities like a dive bezel and a simple, legible dial.

Next, the special occasion watch

We’ve seen all the Datejusts, all the Seamasters, all the Tanks under the sun. There are wonderful and unique references to find in there, but they’re just those names. If you want a vintage dress watch that you’ve probably never seen anyone else wear, look no further than midcentury Universal Geneve. Maybe not the polerouter, but any of the other lesser-known dress watches from the brand pack unbelievable charm and wearability in super unique packages.

There are all kinds of dials, from tiger’s eye to Chinese, Arabic to rosewood, and they just look so good. Plus, they’re easy to spruce up with a different leather strap and slip under a shirt cuff like nobody’s business. Throw it on a brown alligator strap for work and swap for a blue epsom for the weekend, it’s a whole new watch. The perfect formal-ish piece for a niche 3WC. 

Last but not least, the wildcard

Every collection needs a wildcard. The watch you wear to the meetup, or the one you put on to turn some heads. There are a lot of ways you can go with this (and we’re sure you know, our suggestions are not law) but we went for this gold Breitling Top Time chronograph. Sure, it’s a Breitling, people know that name — but have you ever seen a Breitling like this? 

It’s gold. It’s hefty. It’s got some patina. It’s a vintage chronograph. That’s wildcard enough, right? Class it up with a black leather strap or sport it down (that’s not a real thing but we’re making it so) with maybe a green rubber tropic strap, and it’s the wild piece that goes with everything and nothing at the same time. Collecting vintage watches is supposed to be fun, and this watch is just that — fun.

Is there a category of three-watch collection you want to see us tackle? Send a message to @iamjoshcameron on Instagram or reach out through our Contact form. We’ve loved seeing your ideas so far and a huge thanks for sending this one in.