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1975 Rolex Datejust 1601 - Malachite Dial

Details

The Rare Earth Datejust

The reference 1601 is usually seen in steel or standard gold configurations, but the inclusion of a factory Malachite dial elevates this piece to a different category of collecting. Malachite is a fragile, semi-precious stone that requires immense precision to cut into a thin dial. No two are identical due to the natural banding of the mineral. In the mid-seventies, Rolex experimented with these stone dials to offer a level of exclusivity that moved the Datejust away from its tool watch origins and into the realm of high-end jewelry and design.

The Peak Era Of Rolex Creativity

This watch matters because it represents a specific window in the 1970s when Rolex pushed the boundaries of traditional watchmaking. By using organic materials, they ensured that every watch had a unique fingerprint. Finding a Malachite dial in a 36mm 18K yellow gold case is significantly more difficult than finding one in a smaller Lady Datejust. It is a configuration that collectors seek out for its historical weight and its departure from the monochromatic look of standard vintage Rolex models.

Honest Condition And Mint Bracelet

This example is in excellent overall shape. The 18K yellow gold case is thick and well preserved. The Malachite dial has visible cracks located between the 6:15 and 6:30 positions on the dial plate. The 18K yellow gold bracelet is in mint condition with no notable wear or stretch. Mechanically, the watch is running strong after passing our test bench.

A High Tier Collector Priority

This is for the collector who wants a centerpiece that stands apart from standard production. The contrast of the deep green stone against the gold is one of the most striking combinations Rolex has ever produced. It works because it is a rare, tangible piece of 1970s history that carries more weight than almost any other Datejust reference. It is an intentional, hard to replace asset for a serious collection.

Key Specs

Reference: 1601

Model: Datejust 36 (Stone Dial)

Year: 1975 (3.9M Serial)

Movement: Automatic

Case Size: 36mm

Bezel: 18K YG Fluted

Bracelet: 18K YG Jubilee/President (Mint Condition)

Dial: Malachite (Stone)

Wrist Size: 7.25in

Metal: 18K Yellow Gold

Weight: 115.3g

SKU: 499

History

Introduced in 1945 to mark Rolex's 40th anniversary, the Datejust was the first self-winding, waterproof wristwatch to display the date in a window at 3 o'clock. The name said everything: the date, just there, automatically.

The watch debuted alongside the Jubilee bracelet — a five-piece link design created specifically for the occasion and still one of the most copied bracelet patterns in watchmaking. Later iterations added the iconic cyclops lens, magnifying the date 2.5x directly above the aperture, a detail so practical it became a Rolex signature.

Over the decades the Datejust evolved through generations of references — from the early 1600-series with engine-turned bezels to the 1603 in yellow gold, the 16013 and 16030 two-tones of the 1980s, the 16233 and 116233 of the 1990s and 2000s — yet the core proposition never changed: a 36mm case, an automatic movement, and a date that flips at midnight.

It's the Swiss watch equivalent of a white oxford shirt. Timeless in steel, versatile in two-tone, proper in solid gold. Collectors prize the earlier sigma-dial examples for their textural richness; later smooth-dialed pieces wear as effortlessly today as they did the day they left Geneva. Few references have ever achieved this level of consistency across six decades of production.