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1988 Rolex Submariner 168000 - Patina and Rare Misprint Dial

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Details

They Call it the "Zubmariner"

The Reference 168000 is one of the shortest lived models in the history of the Submariner. Known to collectors as the Triple Zero, it was produced for only a nine month window in the late 1980s as a bridge between the vintage 16800 and the modern 16610. This was the specific reference that introduced 904L stainless steel to the dive line. This example features a rare printing error on the dial where the S in Submariner resembles a Z, leading to its designation among collectors as the “Zubmariner”. It represents a precise and brief moment of Rolex evolution that is far scarcer than the standard production models.

Collector Level Anomalies

What makes this specific piece stand out is the combination of its short production run and the specific aging of the dial. While modern Submariners rely on perfect, clinical finishes, this neo-vintage example has developed a distinct TV static dial patina. This textured aging across the black dial provides a depth and character that standard gloss dials cannot replicate. It offers the classic aesthetic of the five digit era, prioritizing the sleek, original case geometry over the bulky profile found in modern Rolex sports watches.

Textured Aging And Sharp Geometry

The overall condition is excellent. The stainless steel case retains its original lines and sharp lug transitions, showing that the integrity of the 904L steel has been well preserved. The bezel is sharp and rotates as intended, and the Oyster bracelet shows minimal stretch for its age. After passing our test bench, the automatic movement is running strong.

An Uncommon Daily Driver

This watch works because it carries three distinct layers of collectability into a classic daily driver: the nine month reference window, the printing error, and the unique dial patina. It maintains the full utility of a professional dive watch while offering the specific anomalies that serious collectors hunt for. For the buyer who wants the iconic Submariner silhouette but prefers a piece that looks different from every other one in the room, this is the choice. It is a historically significant configuration that is genuinely hard to replace.

Key Specs

Reference: 168000

Model: Submariner Date (Triple Zero)

Year: 1988 (R-Serial)

Movement: Automatic (Cal. 3035)

Case Size: 40mm

Bezel: Rotating Black Insert

Bracelet: Oyster (10 Links)

Dial: Black "Zubmariner" Patina

Wrist Size: 7in

Metal: Stainless Steel (904L)

SKU: 487

History

The Rolex Submariner was introduced in 1953 as one of the first wristwatches designed specifically for diving. Built around legibility, water resistance, and durability, it quickly became the benchmark for the modern dive watch. Early references established the formula that still defines the model today: a rotating timing bezel, highly visible luminescent dial, screw-down crown, and Oyster case construction. What began as a professional tool for underwater use soon grew into one of the most recognizable watch designs ever made.

Over the decades, the Submariner evolved through subtle refinements rather than radical change. Case proportions shifted, crown guards were introduced, movements improved, and water resistance increased, but the core identity remained intact. That consistency is exactly why collectors respect it so deeply. Whether in no-date form or with the signature date display, the Submariner represents Rolex at its purest: functional, restrained, and built to last. Few watches have influenced the industry more, and even fewer have remained this relevant across generations.

1988 Rolex Submariner 168000 - Patina and Rare Misprint Dial
1988 Rolex Submariner 168000 - Patina and Rare Misprint Dial Sale price$13,500.00 USD

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4 months ago

I knew I was gonna like Danny, based on his name, but nothing could’ve prepared me for how great of an experience this was. He had the most beautiful 70s Seamaster Cosmic on his website and I was set to be married 2 days later - I arranged to buy it but before leaving we both realized it needed to be serviced. I panicked, because I was literally buying this for my wedding, and Danny being the legend he is, loaned me a nearly identical Seamaster to make sure I could get through the event Never have I had someone go so above and beyond for me, especially while purchasing one of the lesser priced items in their inventory. He serviced my watch and exchanged it with me after the wedding on a super fast turnaround timeline. I would sincerely recommend you visit this guy, you will not be disappointed Edit: adding a pic of the loaner (two tone) and the owner (crosshair)

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5 months ago

Great service and shop. Danny and his team were incredibly accommodating, professional, and kind. Great selection of vintage watches. Their store is the hidden gem in the diamond district.

Zee06
2 months ago

This was my first real luxury watch purchase, a Rolex 15200 Date 34mm, I own Tissots and a Laco, but those are entry level luxury watches. I found Danny’s Vintage Watches online, and had great feedback both on Google, Chrono24 and the Reddit watch community. So decided to give him a shot as buying online can be a crap shoot. Ordered Monday night, was at my doorstep Friday morning. Despite the watch being over 30 years old, serial number says it’s from 91, the watch looked new. Didn’t come with box or papers, and was shipped in a plastic sleeve wrapped in bubble wrap. Danny was always available to answer questions. I’ll be buying from Danny again for the next purchase…saw a couple of Speedmasters on his site I liked….

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4 months ago

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