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1999 Rolex Lady Datejust 79173 – Two-Tone Mother of Pearl Diamond Dial

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Details

A Rare Golden Spectrum Mother Of Pearl

This Lady Datejust features a factory Mother of Pearl dial with a naturally yellow hue, which is a departure from the more common white or grey variants. These dials require an incredibly delicate production process where a thin slice of organic shell is bonded to the metal dial plate. Because the material is natural, the visual depth and texture are impossible to replicate with paint or lacquer. This specific example is particularly notable for its color-shifting properties. Depending on how the light hits the surface, the dial moves between vibrant yellow, crisp white, and deep orange tones. The addition of factory diamond markers elevates this from a standard production model into a genuine piece of jewelry.

Sophisticated High Tier Execution

The Lady Datejust has long been a staple of the Rolex catalog, but the use of exotic organic materials marks a specific level of luxury within the line. Produced in 1999, this A-serial piece comes from an era where Rolex began leaning into more adventurous dial configurations for their precious metal and two-tone models. Finding a Mother of Pearl dial that has this specific golden spectrum is rare, as most retain a cooler, pearlescent white tone. 

Exceptional Preservation And Mechanical Health

The watch is in very good overall condition. The Mother of Pearl dial is perfect and free of any hairline cracks, which is the primary concern with these organic dials. The sapphire crystal is clear and the 18K yellow gold bezel is sharp. The matching two-tone Jubilee bracelet has very little sag and retains its original structural integrity. Mechanically, the watch is confirmed to be running strong after passing by our test bench.

A Distinctive Daily Identity

This is a perfect choice for someone who appreciates the timeless look of a two-tone Rolex but wants a dial that is genuinely rare. It provides a level of exclusivity that standard champagne dials cannot offer. This is a well-preserved example of a high-tier factory configuration that remains as relevant today as it was in the late nineties.

Key Specs

Reference: 79173

Model: Lady-Datejust 26

Year: 1999 (A-Serial)

Movement: Automatic (Quickset)

Case Size: 26mm

Bezel: 18K YG Fluted

Bracelet: Two-Tone Jubilee

Dial: Mother of Pearl (MOP) Diamond Dial

Wrist Size: 5.25–5.75in

Metal: Two-Tone (SS/YG)

SKU: 511

History

Everything the Datejust promised in 36mm, scaled to 26mm and refined for the wrist it was designed for. The Lady Datejust carries the same self-winding movement, the same date-at-midnight precision, and the same Jubilee or Oyster bracelet options — just proportioned for a smaller case that wears with the understated confidence of someone who knows what they're wearing.

Rolex produced the Lady Datejust in an exceptional range of combinations: yellow gold, white gold, two-tone steel and gold, with dials in champagne, silver, mother-of-pearl, onyx, and diamond-set configurations. The fluted bezel — a Rolex hallmark borrowed from its larger sibling — is especially elegant at 26mm, where the vertical grooves catch light differently than on any other watch in this size class.

References like the 6916, 69173, and 69174 span from the early 1970s through the 1990s and represent the full breadth of what Rolex achieved in the ladies' category: sport-elegant hybrids that function flawlessly as everyday wear while holding their own at any occasion. A great Lady Datejust ages beautifully, developing the kind of warm dial patina that no new watch can replicate.

What Our Clients Say About Us

Dan Young
4 months ago

I knew I was gonna like Danny, based on his name, but nothing could’ve prepared me for how great of an experience this was. He had the most beautiful 70s Seamaster Cosmic on his website and I was set to be married 2 days later - I arranged to buy it but before leaving we both realized it needed to be serviced. I panicked, because I was literally buying this for my wedding, and Danny being the legend he is, loaned me a nearly identical Seamaster to make sure I could get through the event Never have I had someone go so above and beyond for me, especially while purchasing one of the lesser priced items in their inventory. He serviced my watch and exchanged it with me after the wedding on a super fast turnaround timeline. I would sincerely recommend you visit this guy, you will not be disappointed Edit: adding a pic of the loaner (two tone) and the owner (crosshair)

Patrick Farella
5 months ago

Great service and shop. Danny and his team were incredibly accommodating, professional, and kind. Great selection of vintage watches. Their store is the hidden gem in the diamond district.

Zee06
2 months ago

This was my first real luxury watch purchase, a Rolex 15200 Date 34mm, I own Tissots and a Laco, but those are entry level luxury watches. I found Danny’s Vintage Watches online, and had great feedback both on Google, Chrono24 and the Reddit watch community. So decided to give him a shot as buying online can be a crap shoot. Ordered Monday night, was at my doorstep Friday morning. Despite the watch being over 30 years old, serial number says it’s from 91, the watch looked new. Didn’t come with box or papers, and was shipped in a plastic sleeve wrapped in bubble wrap. Danny was always available to answer questions. I’ll be buying from Danny again for the next purchase…saw a couple of Speedmasters on his site I liked….

Mohammed Islam
4 months ago

Can't recommend Danny's vintage watches enough!!! My first Omega ever and im in love have been wearing every day since I purchased it. Danny's shop is a must visit if you are in NYC looking for a watch!!!