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Audemars Piguet Cobra 4579/519 - Champagne Dial

Sculptural gold, unmistakably AP

The Cobra sits in a very specific corner of Audemars Piguet’s history, when the brand leaned hard into sculptural design and jewelry-forward execution. This example, produced in the late 1980s to early 1990s, captures that intent clearly. The woven 18k gold bracelet flows directly into the case, creating a single continuous form that feels designed rather than assembled. It’s bold in construction, but refined in scale.

The champagne dial with diamond hour markers adds just enough light and contrast, reinforcing the Cobra’s identity as a watch meant to be worn as much for how it looks as for what it represents.

Why the Cobra matters

The Cobra is defined by its bracelet. The woven gold construction is not decorative — it’s structural to how the watch wears and how it’s perceived on the wrist. Integrated examples like this carry weight, fluidity, and presence that strap-based or later interpretations simply don’t replicate.

The diamond markers elevate the dial without overpowering it, keeping the watch balanced between elegance and visual interest. It’s a configuration that reflects AP’s willingness during this era to blur the line between watchmaking and fine jewelry.

Condition, clearly stated

Overall condition is strong and honestly presented. The bracelet remains tight and well preserved, the case shows no visible scratches or dings, and the crystal is clean. The dial shows a scratch or crack between the 5 and 6 o’clock area, along with some dirt around the border, which should be noted and does not overwhelm the overall presentation.

Mechanically, the watch is performing very well, running at -4 seconds per day with strong amplitude and zero beat error, indicating a healthy manual-wind movement.

A distinctive AP from a design-driven era

This is not a conventional Audemars Piguet, and that’s exactly the appeal. The Cobra represents a period when AP explored form, texture, and material with confidence, producing pieces that feel increasingly scarce today.

For someone drawn to integrated gold watches that prioritize design and craftsmanship over complication, this Cobra stands out as a compelling, wearable example from one of AP’s most expressive eras.

Key Specs

Model: Cobra

Year: late 80s early 90s

Movement: Manual

Case Size: 27x32

Bezel: 18k gold

Bracelet: Integrated 18k Woven gold 

Dial: Champagne with diamond hour markers 

Wrist Size: 6.5 to 7in

History

The Audemars Piguet vintage integrated gold watches with stone dials, unique diamond dials, and other rare variations are truly exceptional pieces, reflecting the brand’s commitment to artistry, luxury, and craftsmanship. Here’s an overview of the Audemars Piguet integrated gold watches, including the history of gold timepieces from the brand, their significance, and what makes these vintage models so special:

History of Audemars Piguet Gold Watches

Audemars Piguet has a long-standing tradition of producing exquisite gold watches, and the evolution of their designs in the 20th century set the stage for some of the most innovative and collectible timepieces in the watch industry.

Gold, as a material, has always been closely tied to luxury and craftsmanship. Audemars Piguet was already known for its technical prowess and innovative designs, but it was during the 1970s that the brand began to create iconic integrated gold watches—particularly those with stone dials, diamond dials, and even full diamond watches that would become highly sought-after vintage collector’s items today.

The integrated bracelet design was first popularized with the release of the Royal Oak in 1972, but the use of gold and luxurious materials in such designs was also being explored in parallel, with Audemars Piguet creating watches that combined both beauty and sophistication. These models were typically made of 18k gold, and their integration with the case and bracelet offered a seamless, fluid design that was ahead of its time.

The integrated gold watches from Audemars Piguet were an evolution of luxury timepieces in the 1970s and 1980s. The decision to use gold, combined with innovative design, was revolutionary in that it represented a departure from the traditional, conservative gold watches of the past.

Key Features of Audemars Piguet Integrated Gold Watches

  • Integrated Design: The seamless integration of the bracelet into the case was a defining characteristic of these pieces. The bracelet itself would often be made of solid gold and would flow directly into the case, creating an elegant, uninterrupted line that felt modern and bold for the era. Notable examples include the Cobra automatic reference 5403, the mini Cobras, and the Bamboo, which is one of the most popular and collectible models in 2025.

  • Stone Dials: Some of these vintage integrated gold models featured stone dials, often made from materials like lapis lazuli, malachite, tiger's eye, aventurine, turquoise, and more. Stone dials are extremely fragile to work with and often cracked when being fitted into the cases of these gold watches. This added to the cost and labor of creating them. Even today, watchmakers servicing these timepieces sometimes crack the dial, making the seldom-seen, uncracked, rare dials even more collectible. These stone dials were not only a luxury aesthetic choice but also an example of the brand's attention to detail and its ability to incorporate rare and precious materials into its designs.

  • Diamond Dials: In addition to stone dials, Audemars Piguet also introduced models with diamond-encrusted dials, adding a layer of glamour and luxury. The use of diamonds in the dial, along with the gold case and integrated bracelet, created a truly opulent timepiece that attracted the most discerning collectors.

  • Rare and Collectible: These vintage Audemars Piguet gold watches with stone and diamond dials were made in limited quantities, further enhancing their rarity and desirability. As time passed, the market began to recognize the historical significance and unique craftsmanship of these pieces, especially those that were part of limited-edition runs or had custom features like specific stone dials or diamond settings.

Significance of the AP Integrated Gold Watches

What makes Audemars Piguet’s vintage integrated gold watches so important and valuable today is their unique combination of several elements that were ahead of their time:

  1. Design Innovation: The integrated bracelet design, which seamlessly links the case and the bracelet without any visible lugs or joints, became a hallmark of the brand's designs. This innovation was a departure from the norm of traditional gold watches, where bracelets were often separate pieces that could be replaced or adjusted. The fluidity of the design makes these watches stand out.

  2. Material Mastery: The use of solid 18k gold for both the cases and bracelets gave the watches a sense of luxury and substance that matched the precise craftsmanship of the movement. Additionally, integrating precious materials like stone or diamond dials pushed these timepieces into a more artistic realm, appealing to both watch enthusiasts and art collectors.

  3. Timeless Appeal: Despite being created decades ago, these vintage gold watches remain timeless in their appeal. The fusion of classic materials, such as gold, with luxurious, unconventional dials (stone and diamonds) gave the watches an aesthetic that transcended the trends of any specific era, making them timeless pieces for collectors.

  4. Exclusivity: Due to their rarity—limited runs, bespoke designs, and the fact that these models were not mass-produced, vintage Audemars Piguet gold watches with stone dials, diamond dials, and guilloché are highly coveted by collectors. Their exclusivity makes them some of the most sought-after timepieces in the market.

What Our Clients Say About Us

Dan Young
4 months ago

I knew I was gonna like Danny, based on his name, but nothing could’ve prepared me for how great of an experience this was. He had the most beautiful 70s Seamaster Cosmic on his website and I was set to be married 2 days later - I arranged to buy it but before leaving we both realized it needed to be serviced. I panicked, because I was literally buying this for my wedding, and Danny being the legend he is, loaned me a nearly identical Seamaster to make sure I could get through the event Never have I had someone go so above and beyond for me, especially while purchasing one of the lesser priced items in their inventory. He serviced my watch and exchanged it with me after the wedding on a super fast turnaround timeline. I would sincerely recommend you visit this guy, you will not be disappointed Edit: adding a pic of the loaner (two tone) and the owner (crosshair)

Patrick Farella
5 months ago

Great service and shop. Danny and his team were incredibly accommodating, professional, and kind. Great selection of vintage watches. Their store is the hidden gem in the diamond district.

Zee06
2 months ago

This was my first real luxury watch purchase, a Rolex 15200 Date 34mm, I own Tissots and a Laco, but those are entry level luxury watches. I found Danny’s Vintage Watches online, and had great feedback both on Google, Chrono24 and the Reddit watch community. So decided to give him a shot as buying online can be a crap shoot. Ordered Monday night, was at my doorstep Friday morning. Despite the watch being over 30 years old, serial number says it’s from 91, the watch looked new. Didn’t come with box or papers, and was shipped in a plastic sleeve wrapped in bubble wrap. Danny was always available to answer questions. I’ll be buying from Danny again for the next purchase…saw a couple of Speedmasters on his site I liked….

Mohammed Islam
4 months ago

Can't recommend Danny's vintage watches enough!!! My first Omega ever and im in love have been wearing every day since I purchased it. Danny's shop is a must visit if you are in NYC looking for a watch!!!