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Audemars Piguet 5388 - Integrated WG Blue Sunburst Dial

Details

Mid-Century Audemars At Its Purest

Before the Royal Oak redefined the brand as a sports watch powerhouse, Audemars Piguet was the master of the ultra-thin, integrated dress watch. This Ref. 5388 is a definitive example of that 1970s mastery. It is a seamless piece of white gold architecture where the distinction between the case and the bracelet effectively disappears. In an era where most luxury houses were playing with yellow gold, this white gold execution offers a much cooler, more industrial aesthetic that feels surprisingly contemporary fifty years later.

Blue Sunburst And White Gold

The dial is a deep blue sunburst that provides a sharp, metallic contrast to the monochrome white gold surroundings. It’s a configuration that shifts dramatically depending on the light, moving from a bright electric blue to a nearly black navy. The integrated 18K white gold bracelet is the highlight here; the weave is tight and heavy, giving the watch a substantial weight of nearly 92 grams. This is not a flimsy dress watch. It has the physical presence and wrist-feel of a much larger piece despite its refined 31mm diameter.

Condition And Reality

The overall condition of this piece is excellent. The 18K white gold case and integrated bracelet have been well-preserved, maintaining their original texture and tension without the excessive stretch often found in 70s gold bracelets. There is a small amount of dust visible under the crystal, which we have noted but left as-is to preserve the watch’s current state. Mechanically, the automatic movement is running well after passing our test bench. 

Why It Works

This watch works because it represents a specific, high-water mark of Audemars Piguet's history that is currently being rediscovered by serious collectors. It offers the same integrated-bracelet DNA as more famous sport models but in a format that is far more elegant and rare. It is for the person who wants the weight and prestige of an AP from the golden era without the ubiquitous octagonal bezel. It’s a heavy, white gold statement piece that remains tucked away and subtle until you catch the sunburst dial in the right light.
Key Specs

Reference: 5388

Model: Integrated Automatic Dress Watch

Year: 1970s

Movement: Automatic (Ultra-Thin Calibre)

Case Size: 31mm

Bezel: 18K White Gold (Integrated)

Bracelet: 18K White Gold Integrated (Fits 7–7.25in)

Dial: Blue Sunburst

Metal: 18K White Gold

Weight: 91.8g

SKU: 668