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Audemars Piguet - Breguet Numeral Dial

Details

Thin on paper, serious on wrist

This Audemars Piguet Ultra-Thin from the late ’80s to early ’90s is the kind of watch the brand built its reputation on long before oversized sports models took over the conversation. Slim 18k yellow gold case, hand-wound movement, and a white dial with applied Breguet numerals. The piece communicates proportion done right.

Why this dial matters

Breguet numerals change the tone completely. They add texture and old-world formality without cluttering the dial. Against the white backdrop and thin case profile, the layout feels traditional but not dated. This is AP leaning into classical watchmaking rather than experimentation.

At 31mm and ultra-thin, it wears flat and elegant. The kind of watch that disappears under a cuff and feels intentional rather than decorative.

Condition is key

Overall condition is strong. The case appears unpolished and shows light oxidation consistent with age, which gives the gold warmth without looking overworked. The dial presents cleanly. It’s fitted with an aftermarket lizard strap and buckle.

The manual wind movement is running very well with healthy amplitude after passing by our test bench. 

A proper AP dress watch

This is the side of Audemars Piguet that serious collectors respect. Thin, precious metal, hand-wound, and built around restraint rather than hype.

If you want an AP that speaks to the brand’s traditional strengths instead of its modern marketing, this is exactly that. Elegant, balanced, and easy to live with.

Key Specs

Model: Ultra-Thin

Year: 1987–1994

Movement: Manual

Case Size: 31mm

Bezel: 18K yellow gold

Bracelet: Lizard leather strap

Dial: White with Breguet numerals

SKU: 234

History

Abraham-Louis Breguet founded his workshop in Paris in 1775 and proceeded to invent or refine more essential watchmaking concepts than any other single person in the history of the craft: the tourbillon, the self-winding Perpétuelle pocket watch, the Breguet overcoil, and the Breguet numeral typeface still used on dials today. The Marine collection is inspired by Breguet's historical work creating chronometers for the French Navy. The Classique is the formal dress collection. Our examples represent one of horology's most important names at accessible price points.