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Audemars Piguet Cobra – White Gold, Blue Sunburst Dial

Details

Pure integrated silver-gold

The Audemars Piguet Cobra is the definitive expression of the 1970s "integrated" era. While modern collectors fixate on the Royal Oak, the Cobra was the high-jewelry alternative, designed by Gérald Genta to look and feel like a single, continuous piece of fabric made from 18k white gold. This specific example is an early production model, noted by its "no-letter" serial number, placing it right at the start of the Cobra’s history. Another hint is the dial stamped writing style. It is a sculptural, liquid-metal design that represents a time when AP was the undisputed king of the elegant, woven-gold bracelet.

A rare, symmetrical weave

This early reference features a specific bezel layout that was later simplified. On these first-run Cobras, the woven pattern of the bracelet continues seamlessly over the bezel in a symmetrical flow, effectively "erasing" the border between the case and the strap. Later iterations often moved to a different bezel texture or a more pronounced case break, but this early version preserves the pure, unbroken silhouette that Genta originally intended. Paired with a deep blue sunburst dial, it is a high-contrast configuration that remains one of the most elusive in the Cobra lineage.

An honest survivor

The watch is in overall good condition, especially considering the complexity of the integrated white gold weave. The original sunburst dial remains vibrant, though it shows some light character marks and chips near the edges consistent with its 50-year history. The bracelet remains tight and structurally sound; while there is a slight, honest bend on the 12 o'clock side, it is not noticeable on wrist. Mechanically, the manual-wind movement has been professionally adjusted and is running strong after passing our test bench.

The textural outlier

This is for the collector who wants a piece of the Genta-era design language without following the crowd. It carries a heavy, luxurious presence on the wrist and functions as a seamless jewelry object as much as a timekeeper. It is a sophisticated, historical piece of Audemars Piguet’s heritage that offers a completely different tactile experience than a traditional linked bracelet. It’s rare, it’s intentional, and it represents a specific, early-production window of AP design that rarely surfaces in this configuration.

We offer bracelet extension and cutting by our professional in-house jewelers. Extra links or sizing for smaller wrists are available upon request.

Key Specs

Model: Cobra

Year: 1975–1980

Movement: Manual

Case Size: 26.5 × 31mm

Bezel: 18K White Gold Integrated

Bracelet: Integrated woven 18K White Gold

Dial: Blue Sunburst

Wrist Size: 6.25–6.5 inches

Metal: 18K White Gold

Weight: 97.7 grams

  • SKU: 444
History

The Cobra is one of the most sinuous and distinctive watches in the Audemars Piguet dress catalog — a bracelet watch whose integrated 18-karat gold links undulate in a pattern that evokes, and earns, the name. Produced primarily in the late 1970s through the 1990s, the Cobra houses ultrathin manual-wind movements in cases ranging from 26mm to 35mm.

These are watches that rewarded you for being close to them: the bracelet articulation, the surface contrasts between polished and brushed gold, and the dial finishing are all things a photograph undersells. Reference 5403 in yellow gold and 4239BA with pave diamond dials represent the range from elegant everyday wear to full haute joaillerie. The Cobra is AP at its most purely luxurious — no sport pretense, no complications for their own sake.

What Our Clients Say About Us

Dan Young
4 months ago

I knew I was gonna like Danny, based on his name, but nothing could’ve prepared me for how great of an experience this was. He had the most beautiful 70s Seamaster Cosmic on his website and I was set to be married 2 days later - I arranged to buy it but before leaving we both realized it needed to be serviced. I panicked, because I was literally buying this for my wedding, and Danny being the legend he is, loaned me a nearly identical Seamaster to make sure I could get through the event Never have I had someone go so above and beyond for me, especially while purchasing one of the lesser priced items in their inventory. He serviced my watch and exchanged it with me after the wedding on a super fast turnaround timeline. I would sincerely recommend you visit this guy, you will not be disappointed Edit: adding a pic of the loaner (two tone) and the owner (crosshair)

Patrick Farella
5 months ago

Great service and shop. Danny and his team were incredibly accommodating, professional, and kind. Great selection of vintage watches. Their store is the hidden gem in the diamond district.

Zee06
2 months ago

This was my first real luxury watch purchase, a Rolex 15200 Date 34mm, I own Tissots and a Laco, but those are entry level luxury watches. I found Danny’s Vintage Watches online, and had great feedback both on Google, Chrono24 and the Reddit watch community. So decided to give him a shot as buying online can be a crap shoot. Ordered Monday night, was at my doorstep Friday morning. Despite the watch being over 30 years old, serial number says it’s from 91, the watch looked new. Didn’t come with box or papers, and was shipped in a plastic sleeve wrapped in bubble wrap. Danny was always available to answer questions. I’ll be buying from Danny again for the next purchase…saw a couple of Speedmasters on his site I liked….

Mohammed Islam
4 months ago

Can't recommend Danny's vintage watches enough!!! My first Omega ever and im in love have been wearing every day since I purchased it. Danny's shop is a must visit if you are in NYC looking for a watch!!!