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Audemars Piguet Octagonal – White Gold Lapis Lazuli & Pavé Diamond Dial

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The octagonal Lapis trophy

This piece represents a high-water mark for Audemars Piguet’s jewelry-driven watchmaking in the late 20th century. While the brand is currently defined by its sport watches, their work with shaped, ultra-thin gold cases and exotic stone dials is where their most creative history hides. The dial is a heavy-hitting combination of a deep blue Lapis Lazuli outer ring and a diamond pavé center. It is a configuration that feels more like a piece of high jewelry than a traditional timepiece, framed by a rare double row of diamonds on the 18k white gold bezel.

Geometry and exotic stone

The octagonal case shape is a sharp, geometric departure from the standard round dress watches of the era. The contrast between the vibrant blue of the Lapis and the white gold creates a cold, clean aesthetic that manages to be loud and sophisticated at the same time. Stone dials are notoriously difficult to preserve, yet this Lapis surface remains structurally perfect. It is an unapologetic design that reflects a time when AP was at the top of the food chain for gem-set horology, catering to a clientele that demanded more than just a standard dial.

Honest modifications

The 18k white gold case is in good condition, retaining its distinct lines. It is important to note that this piece has been modified with an aftermarket lug installation to allow it to fit a leather strap. The Lapis dial is excellent and shows no cracks or damage. It is currently paired with an aftermarket buckle. Mechanically, the manual-wind movement is running strong after passing our test bench.

A wearable AP outlier

This is for anyone who values the specific, experimental side of vintage Audemars Piguet. It carries a massive visual punch due to the blue Lapis and the double diamond bezel, but the 29x32mm proportions keep it from feeling theatrical. The transition to the leather strap makes it an easier, more understated way to wear a high-level jewelry watch. It is an intentional choice for a collector who wants the prestige of the brand but isn't interested in following the mainstream catalog. It is rare, it is honest about its history, and it is ready to be worn.

Key Specs

Model: Octagonal

Movement: Manual

Case Size: 29x32mm

Bezel: Double Row Diamond

Bracelet: Leather Strap

Dial: Pavé and Lapis Lazuli

Metal: 18K White Gold

SKU: 454

History

Founded in 1875 in Le Brassus by childhood friends Jules Louis Audemars and Edward Auguste Piguet, Audemars Piguet was built around technical watchmaking from day one. The Vallée de Joux was already known for complications, and AP quickly earned a reputation for building complex movements that other brands would case and sell under their own names. Perpetual calendars, minute repeaters, and chronographs were not marketing exercises. They were the foundation of the business. By the early 20th century, Audemars Piguet was one of the few manufactures capable of producing highly complicated wristwatches in-house.

Through the mid-century period, AP leaned heavily into ultra-thin watchmaking. The brand developed some of the thinnest hand-wound and automatic movements of their time, helping define the elegant dress watch era of the 1940s through 1960s. Slim yellow gold cases, clean dials, and restrained proportions became signatures. These pieces were never loud, but they were technically advanced beneath the surface. That combination of discretion and mechanical depth is a big reason mid-century AP dress watches remain so respected among collectors today.

In the 1970s, as the industry shifted, Audemars Piguet experimented far beyond traditional round cases. While the Royal Oak often dominates the conversation, AP was simultaneously producing bold integrated gold watches that feel just as distinctive. The Cobra models, with their tightly woven brick or mesh-style bracelets, created a fluid, almost jewelry-like silhouette on the wrist. These watches blurred the line between timepiece and wearable sculpture. Stone dials, hardstone variants, and slim quartz executions added to their versatility, making them equally at home in formal or nightlife settings.

AP’s integrated gold pieces from this era stand out for their texture and weight. Unlike steel sports models, these watches embraced full precious metal construction with matching bracelets that flowed directly from the case. The finishing was meticulous, with brushed surfaces playing against polished bevels. Many featured minimalist two-hand layouts or discreet date windows, keeping the focus on form. Today, these Cobras and other integrated references capture a distinctly 1970s and 1980s design language that feels confident without being overstated.

Audemars Piguet remains one of the last major Swiss watchmakers still owned by its founding families. Based in Le Brassus, the brand continues to produce complicated movements while honoring its design history. Beyond the headline models, AP’s legacy is rooted in craft, proportion, and a willingness to experiment with shape and texture. For collectors who look past the obvious, the vintage dress watches and integrated gold pieces reveal a different side of the brand: refined, creative, and deeply tied to the traditions of the Vallée de Joux.

Audemars Piguet Octagonal – White Gold Lapis Lazuli & Pavé Diamond Dial
Audemars Piguet Octagonal – White Gold Lapis Lazuli & Pavé Diamond Dial Sale price$16,500.00 USD

What Our Clients Say About Us

Dan Young
4 months ago

I knew I was gonna like Danny, based on his name, but nothing could’ve prepared me for how great of an experience this was. He had the most beautiful 70s Seamaster Cosmic on his website and I was set to be married 2 days later - I arranged to buy it but before leaving we both realized it needed to be serviced. I panicked, because I was literally buying this for my wedding, and Danny being the legend he is, loaned me a nearly identical Seamaster to make sure I could get through the event Never have I had someone go so above and beyond for me, especially while purchasing one of the lesser priced items in their inventory. He serviced my watch and exchanged it with me after the wedding on a super fast turnaround timeline. I would sincerely recommend you visit this guy, you will not be disappointed Edit: adding a pic of the loaner (two tone) and the owner (crosshair)

Patrick Farella
5 months ago

Great service and shop. Danny and his team were incredibly accommodating, professional, and kind. Great selection of vintage watches. Their store is the hidden gem in the diamond district.

Zee06
2 months ago

This was my first real luxury watch purchase, a Rolex 15200 Date 34mm, I own Tissots and a Laco, but those are entry level luxury watches. I found Danny’s Vintage Watches online, and had great feedback both on Google, Chrono24 and the Reddit watch community. So decided to give him a shot as buying online can be a crap shoot. Ordered Monday night, was at my doorstep Friday morning. Despite the watch being over 30 years old, serial number says it’s from 91, the watch looked new. Didn’t come with box or papers, and was shipped in a plastic sleeve wrapped in bubble wrap. Danny was always available to answer questions. I’ll be buying from Danny again for the next purchase…saw a couple of Speedmasters on his site I liked….

Mohammed Islam
4 months ago

Can't recommend Danny's vintage watches enough!!! My first Omega ever and im in love have been wearing every day since I purchased it. Danny's shop is a must visit if you are in NYC looking for a watch!!!