Audemars Piguet - Onyx & Diamond Pave

Audemars Piguet has a long-standing tradition of producing exquisite gold watches, and the evolution of their designs in the 20th century set the stage for some of the most innovative and collectible timepieces in the watch industry.

Gold, as a material, has always been closely tied to luxury and craftsmanship. Audemars Piguet was already known for its technical prowess and innovative designs, but it was during the 1970s that the brand began to create iconic integrated gold watches—particularly those with stone dials, diamond dials, and even full diamond watches that would become highly sought-after vintage collector’s items today.

The integrated bracelet design was first popularized with the release of the Royal Oak in 1972, but the use of gold and luxurious materials in such designs was also being explored in parallel, with Audemars Piguet creating watches that combined both beauty and sophistication. These models were typically made of 18k gold, and their integration with the case and bracelet offered a seamless, fluid design that was ahead of its time.

The integrated gold watches from Audemars Piguet were an evolution of luxury timepieces in the 1970s and 1980s. The decision to use gold, combined with innovative design, was revolutionary in that it represented a departure from the traditional, conservative gold watches of the past.

Key Features of Audemars Piguet Integrated Gold Watches

• Integrated Design: The seamless integration of the bracelet into the case was a defining characteristic of these pieces. The bracelet itself would often be made of solid gold and would flow directly into the case, creating an elegant, uninterrupted line that felt modern and bold for the era. Notable examples include the Cobra automatic reference 5403, the mini Cobras, and the Bamboo, which is one of the most popular and collectible models in 2025.
  
  
• Stone Dials: Some of these vintage integrated gold models featured stone dials, often made from materials like lapis lazuli, malachite, tiger's eye, aventurine, turquoise, and more. Stone dials are extremely fragile to work with and often cracked when being fitted into the cases of these gold watches. This added to the cost and labor of creating them. Even today, watchmakers servicing these timepieces sometimes crack the dial, making the seldom-seen, uncracked, rare dials even more collectible. These stone dials were not only a luxury aesthetic choice but also an example of the brand's attention to detail and its ability to incorporate rare and precious materials into its designs.
  
  
• Diamond Dials: In addition to stone dials, Audemars Piguet also introduced models with diamond-encrusted dials, adding a layer of glamour and luxury. The use of diamonds in the dial, along with the gold case and integrated bracelet, created a truly opulent timepiece that attracted the most discerning collectors.
  
  
• Rare and Collectible: These vintage Audemars Piguet gold watches with stone and diamond dials were made in limited quantities, further enhancing their rarity and desirability. As time passed, the market began to recognize the historical significance and unique craftsmanship of these pieces, especially those that were part of limited-edition runs or had custom features like specific stone dials or diamond settings.
  
  

Significance of the Integrated Gold Watches

What makes Audemars Piguet’s vintage integrated gold watches so important and valuable today is their unique combination of several elements that were ahead of their time:

1. Design Innovation: The integrated bracelet design, which seamlessly links the case and the bracelet without any visible lugs or joints, became a hallmark of the brand's designs. This innovation was a departure from the norm of traditional gold watches, where bracelets were often separate pieces that could be replaced or adjusted. The fluidity of the design makes these watches stand out.
   
   
2. Material Mastery: The use of solid 18k gold for both the cases and bracelets gave the watches a sense of luxury and substance that matched the precise craftsmanship of the movement. Additionally, integrating precious materials like stone or diamond dials pushed these timepieces into a more artistic realm, appealing to both watch enthusiasts and art collectors.
   
   
3. Timeless Appeal: Despite being created decades ago, these vintage gold watches remain timeless in their appeal. The fusion of classic materials, such as gold, with luxurious, unconventional dials (stone and diamonds) gave the watches an aesthetic that transcended the trends of any specific era, making them timeless pieces for collectors.
   
   
4. Exclusivity: Due to their rarity—limited runs, bespoke designs, and the fact that these models were not mass-produced, vintage Audemars Piguet gold watches with stone dials, diamond dials, and guilloché are highly coveted by collectors. Their exclusivity makes them some of the most sought-after timepieces in the market.