Audemars Piguet – Two Tone Zebra

The Audemars Piguet Zebra is one of the most elusive and intriguing creations ever produced by the legendary Swiss watchmaker. Often misunderstood or unknown outside of serious collector circles, the Zebra is an ultra-rare mechanical dress watch known for its two-tone vertical “zebra stripe” case design, produced in extremely limited quantities during the 1970s and early 1980s. These watches were crafted during an era of bold experimentation at AP—when form, texture, and artisanal execution were just as important as movement engineering.

Audemars Piguet: A Legacy of Innovation

Founded in 1875 in Le Brassus, Switzerland, by Jules Louis Audemars and Edward Auguste Piguet, Audemars Piguet quickly established itself as one of the most prestigious names in haute horlogerie. The brand specialized in complicated mechanical movements, from minute repeaters and perpetual calendars to ultra-thin calibers. Even today, AP remains one of the few true independent watchmakers still owned by the founding families.

Throughout the 20th century, Audemars Piguet was known not only for its technical prowess but also for its unapologetically avant-garde case designs, often handmade by skilled artisans and designed in collaboration with top designers, goldsmiths, and jewelers. This is the creative environment in which the Zebra was born.

The Birth of the AP Zebra

The Zebra is believed to have first appeared in the mid-to-late 1970s, possibly into the early 1980s, during a highly experimental period when Audemars Piguet was producing a wide range of non-Royal Oak, high-design pieces aimed at elite collectors who wanted truly unique watches.

The design of the Zebra is characterized by:

• Two-tone vertically striped case — typically 18k yellow and white gold — giving the effect of a “zebra” pattern.
  
• Rectangular or slightly tonneau-shaped case, often with a flush, minimalist dial.
  
• Manual-wind mechanical movement, typically from the caliber 2003 or 2080 family, known for being ultra-slim and hand-finished.
  
• There is no public record of a single designer credited with creating the Zebra, but these models were likely conceived by AP’s in-house design team or in collaboration with case specialists in Geneva or Le Brassus, where many of these unique models originated.

Why Are There So Few AP Zebras?

Several key reasons explain the rarity of these watches:

1. These were never serial production models. They were bespoke or produced in micro-batches—often under 10 or 20 pieces, and sometimes as unique pieces entirely.
   
2. In the 1970s, AP had not yet become widely known for its sporty Royal Oak line. Most of their watches were made for elite clients, often on special order, with distribution limited to exclusive retailers or VIPs.
   
3. The Zebra’s striped gold construction required exacting metallurgy and finishing techniques, with each case segment precisely bonded. This was expensive and time-consuming, further limiting its production.
   
4. As the Royal Oak rose to fame in the 1980s and 1990s, many of these avant-garde AP dress models were forgotten or overlooked by the mainstream market.
   
5. Many of the few that exist are in private collections, rarely appearing on the secondary market. When they do, they tend to fetch significant interest from serious collectors who understand their importance.
   

Why the Zebra Matters Today

The AP Zebra represents a lost chapter in the history of Audemars Piguet—a moment when the brand was fearlessly artistic and focused on individuality. In today’s landscape, where collectors are rediscovering rare, hand-crafted watches from prestigious maisons, the Zebra has emerged as a true hidden gem.

It stands not only as a symbol of AP’s high craftsmanship and daring design language but also as a reminder of a time when watchmakers didn’t cater to the mass market, and instead built singular objects of wearable art.

For the modern collector, the Zebra is an investment-worthy conversation piece, a historical artifact, and a trophy that almost no one else owns.