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Baume & Mercier 37055 – Yellow Gold Two-Tone Dial

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Details

The vertical two-tone

This Baume & Mercier Reference 37055 is a sharp departure from the uniform dials usually seen in 1970s dress watches. While many shaped watches of the era followed a rigid rectangular format, this oval silhouette offers a softer, more organic presence on the wrist. The real draw is the vertical split dial, featuring a sharp contrast between brushed silver and champagne tones. It is a subtle, geometric play on light that gives the watch a unique personality making it an easy conversation starter. 

Engineering and bespoke leather

The dial is uncommon, but the engineering for the lugs is even more unusual. It features a specific lug engineering setup designed to mechanically secure the leather to the curved case. To make the most of this, we have equipped the piece with a bespoke, custom-made alligator strap. It’s a design that reflects the experimental spirit of the 70s, where brands were playing with hardware and finishes to elevate simple time-only watches.

Honest and verified

This example is an honest survivor, showing the character expected of a vintage gold piece. The 18k yellow gold case shows wear consistent with its age, including some slight bending on the lug attachments, though it remains structurally sound and wearable. The two-tone dial exhibits some spotting that adds to its vintage aesthetic. Mechanically, the manual-wind movement is running well after passing our test bench.

A versatile vintage outlier

This is for anyone who appreciates the charm of a shaped gold watch but wants a configuration that stands out from the crowd. The silver and champagne contrast makes it incredibly versatile, pairing easily with both warm and cool tones. It offers a significant amount of 18k gold presence for the money and serves as a great entry point into the world of rare vintage silhouettes. Between the unique dial and the custom-tailored strap, it is a highly intentional look that is ready for its next chapter.

Key Specs

Reference: 37055

Movement: Manual

Case Size: 24x36mm

Bezel: 18K Yellow Gold

Bracelet: Custom Strap

Dial: Two Tone Brushed Silver and Champagne

Metal: 18K Yellow Gold

SKU: 354

History

Baume & Mercier traces its origins to 1830, when brothers Louis Victor Baume and Célestin Baume founded a watchmaking business in Les Bois, Switzerland. From the beginning, the company focused on precision timekeeping and built a strong export presence, particularly in the British Empire. By the late 19th century, Baume watches were winning awards at international exhibitions and observatory trials, reinforcing the brand’s technical credibility.

In the early 20th century, the company partnered with Paul Mercier, forming Baume & Mercier in 1918 and establishing a headquarters in Geneva. During this period, the brand leaned into elegant, shaped cases that reflected the Art Deco era. Rectangular and tonneau designs became part of its identity, positioning Baume & Mercier as a maker of refined dress watches rather than purely utilitarian tools. This focus on design-forward elegance would continue to define the house for decades.

The mid-century years saw Baume & Mercier producing classic chronographs and understated gold dress watches that remain collectible today. Clean dials, balanced proportions, and traditional mechanical movements characterized much of the output. While not as complication-heavy as some of its Geneva peers, the brand emphasized reliability and accessible luxury, offering well-finished pieces without pushing into ultra-high price territory.

In 1973, Baume & Mercier introduced the Riviera, one of the earlier Swiss luxury steel sports watches with an integrated bracelet and distinctive bezel. The model marked a shift toward sportier aesthetics during a period when the industry was experimenting with new case shapes and materials. The Riviera line has since been revived multiple times, connecting the brand’s modern catalog to its 1970s design language.

Today, Baume & Mercier operates under the Richemont group, maintaining its position as a heritage Swiss brand focused on elegant, wearable timepieces. Collections like the Classima, Clifton, Hampton, and Riviera balance traditional design cues with contemporary production standards. For collectors, vintage Baume & Mercier offers a window into understated Swiss watchmaking, especially in mid-century chronographs and shaped gold dress pieces that reflect a quieter side of Geneva’s history.

Baume & Mercier 37055 – Yellow Gold Two-Tone Dial
Baume & Mercier 37055 – Yellow Gold Two-Tone Dial Sale price$6,500.00 USD

What Our Clients Say About Us

Dan Young
4 months ago

I knew I was gonna like Danny, based on his name, but nothing could’ve prepared me for how great of an experience this was. He had the most beautiful 70s Seamaster Cosmic on his website and I was set to be married 2 days later - I arranged to buy it but before leaving we both realized it needed to be serviced. I panicked, because I was literally buying this for my wedding, and Danny being the legend he is, loaned me a nearly identical Seamaster to make sure I could get through the event Never have I had someone go so above and beyond for me, especially while purchasing one of the lesser priced items in their inventory. He serviced my watch and exchanged it with me after the wedding on a super fast turnaround timeline. I would sincerely recommend you visit this guy, you will not be disappointed Edit: adding a pic of the loaner (two tone) and the owner (crosshair)

Patrick Farella
5 months ago

Great service and shop. Danny and his team were incredibly accommodating, professional, and kind. Great selection of vintage watches. Their store is the hidden gem in the diamond district.

Zee06
2 months ago

This was my first real luxury watch purchase, a Rolex 15200 Date 34mm, I own Tissots and a Laco, but those are entry level luxury watches. I found Danny’s Vintage Watches online, and had great feedback both on Google, Chrono24 and the Reddit watch community. So decided to give him a shot as buying online can be a crap shoot. Ordered Monday night, was at my doorstep Friday morning. Despite the watch being over 30 years old, serial number says it’s from 91, the watch looked new. Didn’t come with box or papers, and was shipped in a plastic sleeve wrapped in bubble wrap. Danny was always available to answer questions. I’ll be buying from Danny again for the next purchase…saw a couple of Speedmasters on his site I liked….

Mohammed Islam
4 months ago

Can't recommend Danny's vintage watches enough!!! My first Omega ever and im in love have been wearing every day since I purchased it. Danny's shop is a must visit if you are in NYC looking for a watch!!!