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Baume & Mercier - Tiger Eye Dial

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Details

A Golden Stone Dial Classic

The 1970s was an era of experimentation with organic textures, and this Baume & Mercier Tank is a definitive example of that period's aesthetic. The dial is crafted from a genuine slice of Tiger Eye stone, prized for its chatoyancy—the unique way the golden-brown bands shift and glow as they catch the light. Because it is a natural material, the striations are unique to this specific watch, offering a depth and warmth that a traditional painted dial cannot achieve. It represents a time when Baume & Mercier was at the forefront of the "stone dial" movement, merging traditional Swiss watchmaking with natural geology.

A Study In Golden Warmth

The 25x33mm 18k yellow gold case is the perfect frame for the Tiger Eye stone, creating a monochromatic warmth that feels substantial on the wrist. The "Tank" silhouette is a masterclass in proportion, featuring a stepped case design that adds a layer of architectural depth. Topped with a blue cabochon crown and minimalist gold dauphine hands, the watch prioritizes the raw beauty of the stone over unnecessary clutter. It is a configuration that feels intentional and artistic, sitting in that rare category of horology that functions equally well as a serious dress watch or a piece of historic jewelry.

Excellent Stone And Sharp Geometry

The 18k yellow gold case is in very good condition, showing only a few small nicks consistent with careful age, while maintaining its original sharp geometry. The Tiger Eye dial is the highlight of this example; it is excellent and perfectly clean, free of the hairline fractures or chips that frequently occur in vintage stone dials. The sapphire crystal is flawless, ensuring a clear view of the stone's natural chatoyancy. Mechanically, the manual-wind movement is running strong after passing our test bench, offering a tactile and reliable winding experience.

The Organic Black Tie Outlier

This is a watch for the collector who appreciates the "if you know, you know" prestige of a vintage stone dial. It offers a level of personality and texture that makes a standard gold dress watch feel quiet by comparison. Whether worn under a cuff for a formal event or paired with a more casual look, it remains a sharp, sophisticated statement piece. It is a rare, well-preserved artifact from an era when watch design was unapologetically bold and focused on material beauty.

Key Specs

Reference: 37059B

Model: Tank

Year: 1970s

Movement: Manual Wind

Case Size: 25x33mm

Bezel: 18k Yellow gold

Bracelet: Leather

Dial: Tiger Eye

Wrist Size:

Metal: 18k Yellow gold

SKU: 140

History

Baume & Mercier traces its origins to 1830, when brothers Louis Victor Baume and Célestin Baume founded a watchmaking business in Les Bois, Switzerland. From the beginning, the company focused on precision timekeeping and built a strong export presence, particularly in the British Empire. By the late 19th century, Baume watches were winning awards at international exhibitions and observatory trials, reinforcing the brand’s technical credibility.

In the early 20th century, the company partnered with Paul Mercier, forming Baume & Mercier in 1918 and establishing a headquarters in Geneva. During this period, the brand leaned into elegant, shaped cases that reflected the Art Deco era. Rectangular and tonneau designs became part of its identity, positioning Baume & Mercier as a maker of refined dress watches rather than purely utilitarian tools. This focus on design-forward elegance would continue to define the house for decades.

The mid-century years saw Baume & Mercier producing classic chronographs and understated gold dress watches that remain collectible today. Clean dials, balanced proportions, and traditional mechanical movements characterized much of the output. While not as complication-heavy as some of its Geneva peers, the brand emphasized reliability and accessible luxury, offering well-finished pieces without pushing into ultra-high price territory.

In 1973, Baume & Mercier introduced the Riviera, one of the earlier Swiss luxury steel sports watches with an integrated bracelet and distinctive bezel. The model marked a shift toward sportier aesthetics during a period when the industry was experimenting with new case shapes and materials. The Riviera line has since been revived multiple times, connecting the brand’s modern catalog to its 1970s design language.

Today, Baume & Mercier operates under the Richemont group, maintaining its position as a heritage Swiss brand focused on elegant, wearable timepieces. Collections like the Classima, Clifton, Hampton, and Riviera balance traditional design cues with contemporary production standards. For collectors, vintage Baume & Mercier offers a window into understated Swiss watchmaking, especially in mid-century chronographs and shaped gold dress pieces that reflect a quieter side of Geneva’s history.

Baume & Mercier - Tiger Eye Dial
Baume & Mercier - Tiger Eye Dial Sale price$7,500.00 USD

What Our Clients Say About Us

Dan Young
4 months ago

I knew I was gonna like Danny, based on his name, but nothing could’ve prepared me for how great of an experience this was. He had the most beautiful 70s Seamaster Cosmic on his website and I was set to be married 2 days later - I arranged to buy it but before leaving we both realized it needed to be serviced. I panicked, because I was literally buying this for my wedding, and Danny being the legend he is, loaned me a nearly identical Seamaster to make sure I could get through the event Never have I had someone go so above and beyond for me, especially while purchasing one of the lesser priced items in their inventory. He serviced my watch and exchanged it with me after the wedding on a super fast turnaround timeline. I would sincerely recommend you visit this guy, you will not be disappointed Edit: adding a pic of the loaner (two tone) and the owner (crosshair)

Patrick Farella
5 months ago

Great service and shop. Danny and his team were incredibly accommodating, professional, and kind. Great selection of vintage watches. Their store is the hidden gem in the diamond district.

Zee06
2 months ago

This was my first real luxury watch purchase, a Rolex 15200 Date 34mm, I own Tissots and a Laco, but those are entry level luxury watches. I found Danny’s Vintage Watches online, and had great feedback both on Google, Chrono24 and the Reddit watch community. So decided to give him a shot as buying online can be a crap shoot. Ordered Monday night, was at my doorstep Friday morning. Despite the watch being over 30 years old, serial number says it’s from 91, the watch looked new. Didn’t come with box or papers, and was shipped in a plastic sleeve wrapped in bubble wrap. Danny was always available to answer questions. I’ll be buying from Danny again for the next purchase…saw a couple of Speedmasters on his site I liked….

Mohammed Islam
4 months ago

Can't recommend Danny's vintage watches enough!!! My first Omega ever and im in love have been wearing every day since I purchased it. Danny's shop is a must visit if you are in NYC looking for a watch!!!