page transition image
Skip to content

Cart

Your cart is empty

Cartier Must Tank - Vermeil Brown Tortoise Dial

Trade In
Details
The Accessible Icon
The Must de Cartier line was created to bring the brand's iconic designs to a wider audience, and the Tank was its centerpiece. This program allowed Cartier to experiment with materials and dial configurations while maintaining the flawless proportions of the original 1917 design. This example features a rare brown lacquered dial with a tortoiseshell pattern, a more artistic and expressive take on the usually formal Tank.
A Unique Tortoiseshell Dial
What sets this piece apart is the unique dial execution. The lacquered surface has developed a fine, spidered patina that enhances the rich brown tortoise-look pattern, giving it a depth that a standard printed dial lacks. This is the larger Must Tank case, which provides more presence on the wrist than the smaller models from the same era. It offers a more substantial take on the classic Tank form.
An Honest And Unpolished Case
The watch is in good condition. The vermeil case, a layer of gold over sterling silver, appears to be unpolished, retaining its original lines. The unique tortoiseshell-patterned dial is the main attraction, showing its signature spidered lacquer finish. It is fitted to a simple leather strap that complements the warm tones of the case and dial. As with every watch we offer, this piece has been verified as mechanically sound and is ready to wear.
A More Distinct Personality
This watch is for someone who appreciates the history of the Cartier Tank but wants an example with a more distinct personality. The brown tortoise pattern is warm, organic, and less severe than the traditional white Roman numeral dial. As a manual-wind watch, it offers a classic, tactile ownership experience, connecting the wearer to the simple mechanics of timekeeping.
Key Specs
Model: Must Tank
Year: 1970s
Movement: Manual
Case Size: 23x30mm
Strap: Leather Strap
Dial: Brown Tortoise Lacquered
Metal: Vermeil (Gold-Plated Sterling Silver)
SKU: 1317

What Our Clients Say About Us

Dan Young
4 months ago

I knew I was gonna like Danny, based on his name, but nothing could’ve prepared me for how great of an experience this was. He had the most beautiful 70s Seamaster Cosmic on his website and I was set to be married 2 days later - I arranged to buy it but before leaving we both realized it needed to be serviced. I panicked, because I was literally buying this for my wedding, and Danny being the legend he is, loaned me a nearly identical Seamaster to make sure I could get through the event Never have I had someone go so above and beyond for me, especially while purchasing one of the lesser priced items in their inventory. He serviced my watch and exchanged it with me after the wedding on a super fast turnaround timeline. I would sincerely recommend you visit this guy, you will not be disappointed Edit: adding a pic of the loaner (two tone) and the owner (crosshair)

Patrick Farella
5 months ago

Great service and shop. Danny and his team were incredibly accommodating, professional, and kind. Great selection of vintage watches. Their store is the hidden gem in the diamond district.

Zee06
2 months ago

This was my first real luxury watch purchase, a Rolex 15200 Date 34mm, I own Tissots and a Laco, but those are entry level luxury watches. I found Danny’s Vintage Watches online, and had great feedback both on Google, Chrono24 and the Reddit watch community. So decided to give him a shot as buying online can be a crap shoot. Ordered Monday night, was at my doorstep Friday morning. Despite the watch being over 30 years old, serial number says it’s from 91, the watch looked new. Didn’t come with box or papers, and was shipped in a plastic sleeve wrapped in bubble wrap. Danny was always available to answer questions. I’ll be buying from Danny again for the next purchase…saw a couple of Speedmasters on his site I liked….

Mohammed Islam
4 months ago

Can't recommend Danny's vintage watches enough!!! My first Omega ever and im in love have been wearing every day since I purchased it. Danny's shop is a must visit if you are in NYC looking for a watch!!!