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Cartier Tank 5057001 – Vermeil Line Roman Dial

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Details

A fun spin on the quintessential Must Tank

The Must de Cartier Tank is arguably the most successful democratization of a luxury icon in horological history in the late 1970s. This Reference 5057001 is a pure 1980s example, featuring the "Vermeil" case—a solid .925 sterling silver base heavily plated in yellow gold. It carries the exact same dimensions and presence as the Louis Cartier Tank, serving as the ultimate entry point into the brand's most famous design language.

The vertical gold stripe

While the Must de Cartier line is famous for its standard Roman dials, the brand used the 1970s and 80s to experiment with more graphic, avant-garde layouts. This specific execution features a cream-toned dial accented by two bold, vertical gold stripes that frame the Roman numerals. It is a more structural, architectural take on the Tank that leans into the era's obsession with clean lines and mixed textures. By splitting the Roman numerals into two distinct columns, Cartier created a dial that feels less like a traditional clock face and more like a piece of Art Deco signage.

An honest survivor

This Tank is in good overall condition, showing the authentic character of a vintage Vermeil piece. The gold plating across the solid silver case has developed a unique, dark oxidation—particularly around the bezel edges that shows the life this piece has lived. The cream dial remains vibrant, though it shows a single, scratch near the 7 o'clock position. The quartz movement is running strong, and the watch has been outfitted with a fresh leather strap while retaining its original Cartier buckle.

The universal style staple

This is for the collector or the first-time buyer who wants the single most versatile watch ever designed. The Tank is the rare timepiece that feels equally at home with a tailored suit or a casual weekend outfit. It manages to be sophisticated, historical, and approachable all at once. This example is a well-kept piece of Cartier’s most prolific era, offering an authentic vintage experience with the reliability of a quartz caliber. It is a foundational piece for any serious collection.

 

Key Specs

Reference: 5057001

Model: Tank

Year: 1980s

Movement: Quartz

Case Size: 21x28mm

Bezel: 925 Silver Gold Plating

Bracelet: Leather Strap

Dial: White Roman

Metal: 925 Silver Gold Plating

SKU: 185

History

The Tank emerged during the First World War when Louis Cartier drew inspiration from the new Renault FT‑17 tanks.  In 1917 he sketched a watch with straight brancards flanking a rectangular case, echoing the treads and hull of the tracked vehicles .  A prototype was presented to General John Pershing, and the first production pieces appeared in 1919 .  Unlike most wristwatches of the era, which were adapted pocket watches, the Tank was conceived from the outset as a wristwatch for men and women, signalling a modern approach to timekeeping.The design philosophy of the Tank is rooted in simplicity and proportion.  The rectangular case is bounded by vertical brancards, while a clear dial bears Roman numerals and a railroad minute track reminiscent of Parisian architecture .  Blued steel hands and a sapphire cabochon crown became recurring elements, and the overall dimensions were guided by the Golden Ratio .  These features create a formal clarity that distinguishes the Tank from round watches and give it versatility across genders and eras.When it was introduced, the Tank reflected cultural currents of the early twentieth century: mechanisation, the decline of ornate Victorian aesthetics and the emergence of Art Deco geometry.  Its clean lines resonated with artists and intellectuals seeking modern forms.  Over the decades Cartier developed numerous variations—Tank Cintrée, Chinoise, Louis Cartier, Américaine and Française—that adjusted case curvature, size and detailing but always preserved the original rectangular silhouette.  Such continuity allowed the model to evolve without losing its identity.Collectors value the Tank for its historical significance and design purity.  It stands as one of the earliest purpose‑built wristwatches and as a symbol of the shift from pocket to wrist timekeeping.  Its timeless form, adaptable to both formal and casual contexts, continues to attract enthusiasts who appreciate Cartier’s blend of jewellery craftsmanship and watchmaking heritage.

Cartier Tank 5057001 – Vermeil Line Roman Dial
Cartier Tank 5057001 – Vermeil Line Roman Dial Sale price$2,750.00 USD

What Our Clients Say About Us

Dan Young
4 months ago

I knew I was gonna like Danny, based on his name, but nothing could’ve prepared me for how great of an experience this was. He had the most beautiful 70s Seamaster Cosmic on his website and I was set to be married 2 days later - I arranged to buy it but before leaving we both realized it needed to be serviced. I panicked, because I was literally buying this for my wedding, and Danny being the legend he is, loaned me a nearly identical Seamaster to make sure I could get through the event Never have I had someone go so above and beyond for me, especially while purchasing one of the lesser priced items in their inventory. He serviced my watch and exchanged it with me after the wedding on a super fast turnaround timeline. I would sincerely recommend you visit this guy, you will not be disappointed Edit: adding a pic of the loaner (two tone) and the owner (crosshair)

Patrick Farella
5 months ago

Great service and shop. Danny and his team were incredibly accommodating, professional, and kind. Great selection of vintage watches. Their store is the hidden gem in the diamond district.

Zee06
2 months ago

This was my first real luxury watch purchase, a Rolex 15200 Date 34mm, I own Tissots and a Laco, but those are entry level luxury watches. I found Danny’s Vintage Watches online, and had great feedback both on Google, Chrono24 and the Reddit watch community. So decided to give him a shot as buying online can be a crap shoot. Ordered Monday night, was at my doorstep Friday morning. Despite the watch being over 30 years old, serial number says it’s from 91, the watch looked new. Didn’t come with box or papers, and was shipped in a plastic sleeve wrapped in bubble wrap. Danny was always available to answer questions. I’ll be buying from Danny again for the next purchase…saw a couple of Speedmasters on his site I liked….

Mohammed Islam
4 months ago

Can't recommend Danny's vintage watches enough!!! My first Omega ever and im in love have been wearing every day since I purchased it. Danny's shop is a must visit if you are in NYC looking for a watch!!!