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Cartier Tank 5057001 – Vermeil Line Roman Dial

Details

A fun spin on the quintessential Must Tank

The Must de Cartier Tank is arguably the most successful democratization of a luxury icon in horological history in the late 1970s. This Reference 5057001 is a pure 1980s example, featuring the "Vermeil" case—a solid .925 sterling silver base heavily plated in yellow gold. It carries the exact same dimensions and presence as the Louis Cartier Tank, serving as the ultimate entry point into the brand's most famous design language.

The vertical gold stripe

While the Must de Cartier line is famous for its standard Roman dials, the brand used the 1970s and 80s to experiment with more graphic, avant-garde layouts. This specific execution features a cream-toned dial accented by two bold, vertical gold stripes that frame the Roman numerals. It is a more structural, architectural take on the Tank that leans into the era's obsession with clean lines and mixed textures. By splitting the Roman numerals into two distinct columns, Cartier created a dial that feels less like a traditional clock face and more like a piece of Art Deco signage.

An honest survivor

This Tank is in good overall condition, showing the authentic character of a vintage Vermeil piece. The gold plating across the solid silver case has developed a unique, dark oxidation—particularly around the bezel edges that shows the life this piece has lived. The cream dial remains vibrant, though it shows a single, scratch near the 7 o'clock position. The quartz movement is running strong, and the watch has been outfitted with a fresh leather strap while retaining its original Cartier buckle.

The universal style staple

This is for the collector or the first-time buyer who wants the single most versatile watch ever designed. The Tank is the rare timepiece that feels equally at home with a tailored suit or a casual weekend outfit. It manages to be sophisticated, historical, and approachable all at once. This example is a well-kept piece of Cartier’s most prolific era, offering an authentic vintage experience with the reliability of a quartz caliber. It is a foundational piece for any serious collection.

 

Key Specs

Reference: 5057001

Model: Tank

Year: 1980s

Movement: Quartz

Case Size: 21x28mm

Bezel: 925 Silver Gold Plating

Bracelet: Leather Strap

Dial: White Roman

Metal: 925 Silver Gold Plating

SKU: 185

History

Louis Cartier designed the Tank in 1917, inspired by the aerial view of a Renault FT tank on the Western Front — its parallel "rails" mimicking the tracks, its rectangular body echoing the vehicle's profile. The watch was introduced in 1919 and immediately claimed its place as one of the most significant case designs in watchmaking history.

The Tank has never gone out of production, and its list of admirers reads like a century of cultural history: Jackie Kennedy, Andy Warhol, Princess Diana, Yves Saint Laurent. It is the watch of the intelligentsia, the creative, the quietly powerful.

The Tank Must — introduced in the 1970s in vermeil (gold-plated silver) — democratized the design, bringing the silhouette to a new generation. The Tank Louis Cartier in 18-karat gold represents the elevated end. The Tank Solo in stainless steel is the accessible entry point. All three carry the same essential idea: that a rectangle of precious metal can be more beautiful than any complication.


What Our Clients Say About Us

Dan Young
4 months ago

I knew I was gonna like Danny, based on his name, but nothing could’ve prepared me for how great of an experience this was. He had the most beautiful 70s Seamaster Cosmic on his website and I was set to be married 2 days later - I arranged to buy it but before leaving we both realized it needed to be serviced. I panicked, because I was literally buying this for my wedding, and Danny being the legend he is, loaned me a nearly identical Seamaster to make sure I could get through the event Never have I had someone go so above and beyond for me, especially while purchasing one of the lesser priced items in their inventory. He serviced my watch and exchanged it with me after the wedding on a super fast turnaround timeline. I would sincerely recommend you visit this guy, you will not be disappointed Edit: adding a pic of the loaner (two tone) and the owner (crosshair)

Patrick Farella
5 months ago

Great service and shop. Danny and his team were incredibly accommodating, professional, and kind. Great selection of vintage watches. Their store is the hidden gem in the diamond district.

Zee06
2 months ago

This was my first real luxury watch purchase, a Rolex 15200 Date 34mm, I own Tissots and a Laco, but those are entry level luxury watches. I found Danny’s Vintage Watches online, and had great feedback both on Google, Chrono24 and the Reddit watch community. So decided to give him a shot as buying online can be a crap shoot. Ordered Monday night, was at my doorstep Friday morning. Despite the watch being over 30 years old, serial number says it’s from 91, the watch looked new. Didn’t come with box or papers, and was shipped in a plastic sleeve wrapped in bubble wrap. Danny was always available to answer questions. I’ll be buying from Danny again for the next purchase…saw a couple of Speedmasters on his site I liked….

Mohammed Islam
4 months ago

Can't recommend Danny's vintage watches enough!!! My first Omega ever and im in love have been wearing every day since I purchased it. Danny's shop is a must visit if you are in NYC looking for a watch!!!