page transition image
Skip to content

Cart

Your cart is empty

Cartier Tank Louis 81086 - 18K Yellow Gold Diamond Bezel

Trade In
Details
Tank Louis, Built Heavy
The Tank Louis is the formal benchmark for the rectangular watch, and the design has needed almost no revision in a century. What changes between examples is the execution, and this one was specified about as far up as Cartier took it. Case, bezel and bracelet are all 18K yellow gold, and the bezel is set with diamonds, which moves the watch out of the category of a dress watch on a strap and into something closer to a bracelet that happens to keep time. The white Roman dial and blued steel hands hold the line on tradition while everything around them does not.
The Bracelet Is The Rare Part
Most Tank Louis examples turn up on leather. The integrated gold bracelet on this one is the uncommon element, and it changes how the watch behaves entirely. It runs straight out of the case with no lug break, so the gold reads continuously from one side of the wrist to the other, and it gives the watch a weight a strap version never approaches. If you have only ever worn a Tank on leather, this is a different watch.
An Honest Look At The Setting
Condition is good overall. The case, dial and solid gold bracelet all present well. The diamonds on the bezel are high quality stones, but they appear to have been reset at some point and the setting work is uneven from stone to stone. As with every watch we offer, this piece has been verified as mechanically sound and is ready to wear.
For A Tank Worn Loudly
This is for the buyer who loves the proportions of the Tank and has no interest in being discreet about it. Quartz keeps it practical, so it can sit in a drawer for a month and still be right when it comes out. Everything else about the watch is maximal, a full gold build with a diamond bezel and a bracelet most collectors have never had on the wrist. It is a Tank meant to be noticed.
Key Specs
Reference: 81086
Model: Tank Louis
Year: 1980s
Movement: Quartz
Case Size: 23x30mm
Bezel: 18K Yellow Gold with Brilliant Diamonds
Bracelet: 18K Yellow Gold Integrated
Bracelet Length: 7in
Dial: White Roman
Metal: 18K Yellow Gold
Weight: 83.5g
SKU: 1479

What Our Clients Say About Us

Dan Young
4 months ago

I knew I was gonna like Danny, based on his name, but nothing could’ve prepared me for how great of an experience this was. He had the most beautiful 70s Seamaster Cosmic on his website and I was set to be married 2 days later - I arranged to buy it but before leaving we both realized it needed to be serviced. I panicked, because I was literally buying this for my wedding, and Danny being the legend he is, loaned me a nearly identical Seamaster to make sure I could get through the event Never have I had someone go so above and beyond for me, especially while purchasing one of the lesser priced items in their inventory. He serviced my watch and exchanged it with me after the wedding on a super fast turnaround timeline. I would sincerely recommend you visit this guy, you will not be disappointed Edit: adding a pic of the loaner (two tone) and the owner (crosshair)

Patrick Farella
5 months ago

Great service and shop. Danny and his team were incredibly accommodating, professional, and kind. Great selection of vintage watches. Their store is the hidden gem in the diamond district.

Zee06
2 months ago

This was my first real luxury watch purchase, a Rolex 15200 Date 34mm, I own Tissots and a Laco, but those are entry level luxury watches. I found Danny’s Vintage Watches online, and had great feedback both on Google, Chrono24 and the Reddit watch community. So decided to give him a shot as buying online can be a crap shoot. Ordered Monday night, was at my doorstep Friday morning. Despite the watch being over 30 years old, serial number says it’s from 91, the watch looked new. Didn’t come with box or papers, and was shipped in a plastic sleeve wrapped in bubble wrap. Danny was always available to answer questions. I’ll be buying from Danny again for the next purchase…saw a couple of Speedmasters on his site I liked….

Mohammed Islam
4 months ago

Can't recommend Danny's vintage watches enough!!! My first Omega ever and im in love have been wearing every day since I purchased it. Danny's shop is a must visit if you are in NYC looking for a watch!!!