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Cartier Tank Must - Vermeil Burgundy Spider Dial

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Details
An Icon In An Uncommon Color
The "Must de Cartier" line was a brilliant move, bringing the brand's iconic designs to a new generation in the late 1970s and 80s. The Tank was a natural fit for this collection, its perfect geometry translating seamlessly into a more accessible vermeil case. While many of these watches featured classic white or black dials, this example stands out with its deep, uncommon burgundy lacquer. It takes a familiar design and gives it a distinct and confident personality.
A Dial With Its Own Signature
What makes this particular Tank notable is the "spider" effect on its dial. Over time, the burgundy lacquer has developed a fine network of cracks, creating a unique pattern that cannot be replicated. For many collectors, this is not a flaw but a desirable sign of age and authenticity, giving the dial a texture and depth that a perfect surface lacks. It ensures that no other watch, even of the same reference, will look exactly like this one.
A Well-Kept Vermeil Case
This watch is in very good condition. The vermeil case, a layer of gold over sterling silver, shows well for its age. The burgundy dial exhibits the spider cracking that is characteristic of these lacquer dials from this period. The watch is fitted to a leather strap that uses the original Cartier buckle. As with every watch we offer, this piece has been verified as mechanically sound and is ready to wear.
The Daily Ritual Of A Classic
This is a watch for someone who appreciates one of the most important designs of the twentieth century but wants an execution with more character. The manual-wind movement requires a daily interaction, a simple ritual of winding that creates a direct connection between the owner and the machine. It’s a classic that doesn't feel generic, offering an iconic shape with a unique dial.
Key Specs
Model: Tank Must
Year: 1980s
Movement: Manual Wind
Case Size: 21x28mm
Dial: Burgundy Spider
Metal: Vermeil (Gold Plated Sterling Silver)
Strap: Leather with Original Cartier Buckle
SKU: 1175
Vintage 1980s Cartier Tank Must Vermeil Burgundy Spider Dial Manual 21mm
Cartier Tank Must - Vermeil Burgundy Spider Dial Sale price$3,500.00 USD

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Dan Young
4 months ago

I knew I was gonna like Danny, based on his name, but nothing could’ve prepared me for how great of an experience this was. He had the most beautiful 70s Seamaster Cosmic on his website and I was set to be married 2 days later - I arranged to buy it but before leaving we both realized it needed to be serviced. I panicked, because I was literally buying this for my wedding, and Danny being the legend he is, loaned me a nearly identical Seamaster to make sure I could get through the event Never have I had someone go so above and beyond for me, especially while purchasing one of the lesser priced items in their inventory. He serviced my watch and exchanged it with me after the wedding on a super fast turnaround timeline. I would sincerely recommend you visit this guy, you will not be disappointed Edit: adding a pic of the loaner (two tone) and the owner (crosshair)

Patrick Farella
5 months ago

Great service and shop. Danny and his team were incredibly accommodating, professional, and kind. Great selection of vintage watches. Their store is the hidden gem in the diamond district.

Zee06
2 months ago

This was my first real luxury watch purchase, a Rolex 15200 Date 34mm, I own Tissots and a Laco, but those are entry level luxury watches. I found Danny’s Vintage Watches online, and had great feedback both on Google, Chrono24 and the Reddit watch community. So decided to give him a shot as buying online can be a crap shoot. Ordered Monday night, was at my doorstep Friday morning. Despite the watch being over 30 years old, serial number says it’s from 91, the watch looked new. Didn’t come with box or papers, and was shipped in a plastic sleeve wrapped in bubble wrap. Danny was always available to answer questions. I’ll be buying from Danny again for the next purchase…saw a couple of Speedmasters on his site I liked….

Mohammed Islam
4 months ago

Can't recommend Danny's vintage watches enough!!! My first Omega ever and im in love have been wearing every day since I purchased it. Danny's shop is a must visit if you are in NYC looking for a watch!!!