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Cartier Tank Must - Vermeil Line Roman Dial

Details

The Standard For Parisian Elegance

The Tank Must de Cartier is the definitive silhouette that kept the brand at the forefront of style throughout the 1980s. This reference 1613 utilizes the iconic Vermeil construction—18K yellow gold over a solid sterling silver base—providing the look and weight of a solid gold Tank without the inaccessible price point. It is the watch that democratized Cartier luxury while maintaining the strict geometric codes established by Louis Cartier in 1917. This specific 23x30mm size represents the classic proportions that have made the Tank a permanent fixture in horological history.

A Rare Linear Perspective

The standout feature of this example is the Roman Line dial. Unlike the standard "Must" dials that often utilized plain or colored lacquer, this variant features a textured, vertical-lined motif that adds a layer of architectural depth to the face. The layout maintains the classic Roman numerals but presents them with a more modern, structured aesthetic. It is a dial that feels more intentional and refined, separating it from the higher-volume production models of the decade and offering a unique identity for the collector who appreciates small design variations.

Honest Preservation And Mechanical Readiness

This Tank is in good overall condition and presents as a reliable daily driver. The Vermeil case shows some honest surface scratching and signs of use consistent with its age, but it retains a strong gold layer without the heavy "silvering" often seen on worn examples. The caseback still wears a Cartier service sticker, indicating professional maintenance in its recent past. Notably, it remains on its original Cartier leather strap and is paired with the correct Cartier-signed buckle. The quartz movement is running perfectly after passing through our test bench.

The Accessible Vintage Icon

This is for the person who wants a piece of Cartier history that carries a bit more personality than the average vintage Tank. The Roman Line dial works because it adds a subtle, textured detail that makes the watch feel more like a bespoke object. It is an honest, well-maintained example of 1980s luxury that remains just as relevant today. It is a sharp entry point for someone looking to add a primary dress watch to their rotation without compromising on design pedigree.

Key Specs

Reference: 1613

Model: Tank Must de Cartier 

Year: 1980s

Movement: Quartz

Case Size: 23x30mm

Bezel: Vermeil

Dial: Roman "Line" Dial

Bracelet: Original Cartier Leather & Buckle

Metal: Argent (925 Silver) and Gold Plated (Vermeil)

SKU: 526

History

Louis Cartier designed the Tank in 1917, inspired by the aerial view of a Renault FT tank on the Western Front — its parallel "rails" mimicking the tracks, its rectangular body echoing the vehicle's profile. The watch was introduced in 1919 and immediately claimed its place as one of the most significant case designs in watchmaking history.

The Tank has never gone out of production, and its list of admirers reads like a century of cultural history: Jackie Kennedy, Andy Warhol, Princess Diana, Yves Saint Laurent. It is the watch of the intelligentsia, the creative, the quietly powerful.

The Tank Must — introduced in the 1970s in vermeil (gold-plated silver) — democratized the design, bringing the silhouette to a new generation. The Tank Louis Cartier in 18-karat gold represents the elevated end. The Tank Solo in stainless steel is the accessible entry point. All three carry the same essential idea: that a rectangle of precious metal can be more beautiful than any complication.


What Our Clients Say About Us

Dan Young
4 months ago

I knew I was gonna like Danny, based on his name, but nothing could’ve prepared me for how great of an experience this was. He had the most beautiful 70s Seamaster Cosmic on his website and I was set to be married 2 days later - I arranged to buy it but before leaving we both realized it needed to be serviced. I panicked, because I was literally buying this for my wedding, and Danny being the legend he is, loaned me a nearly identical Seamaster to make sure I could get through the event Never have I had someone go so above and beyond for me, especially while purchasing one of the lesser priced items in their inventory. He serviced my watch and exchanged it with me after the wedding on a super fast turnaround timeline. I would sincerely recommend you visit this guy, you will not be disappointed Edit: adding a pic of the loaner (two tone) and the owner (crosshair)

Patrick Farella
5 months ago

Great service and shop. Danny and his team were incredibly accommodating, professional, and kind. Great selection of vintage watches. Their store is the hidden gem in the diamond district.

Zee06
2 months ago

This was my first real luxury watch purchase, a Rolex 15200 Date 34mm, I own Tissots and a Laco, but those are entry level luxury watches. I found Danny’s Vintage Watches online, and had great feedback both on Google, Chrono24 and the Reddit watch community. So decided to give him a shot as buying online can be a crap shoot. Ordered Monday night, was at my doorstep Friday morning. Despite the watch being over 30 years old, serial number says it’s from 91, the watch looked new. Didn’t come with box or papers, and was shipped in a plastic sleeve wrapped in bubble wrap. Danny was always available to answer questions. I’ll be buying from Danny again for the next purchase…saw a couple of Speedmasters on his site I liked….

Mohammed Islam
4 months ago

Can't recommend Danny's vintage watches enough!!! My first Omega ever and im in love have been wearing every day since I purchased it. Danny's shop is a must visit if you are in NYC looking for a watch!!!