page transition image
Skip to content

Cart

Your cart is empty

Cartier Tank Must - White and Grey Lacquer Dial

Details

This Is The Tank Stripped Back

This Tank Must leans into clarity rather than ornament. White and grey lacquered dial, classic Tank proportions, and a clean yellow gold case. Nothing here is trying to be decorative for its own sake. It's a classic tank with an interesting and uncommon dial design. At 23mm x 30 mm, the watch wears exactly how a proper Tank should. Slim, balanced, and unmistakably Cartier.

Why This Configuration Matters

The white and grey dial gives the watch depth without relying on numerals or heavy contrast. It feels more design driven than traditional Roman dial Tanks, and far cleaner on the wrist.

Yellow gold adds warmth and keeps the watch grounded in Cartier’s classic language, while the quartz movement allows the case to stay thin. This is the Must line doing what it did best in the 1980s. Offering real Cartier design in a refined, wearable format.

What You Need To Know Before Wearing It

Condition is strong overall. The dial is mint. The acrylic is clean. The case shows minor tarnishing consistent with age, which is visible but expected. The watch is fitted to a leather strap with an aftermarket buckle in good condition. The quartz movement is running properly after passing by our test bench. 

Why This Watch Still Works

This is a Tank for someone who values classic proportion and design over decoration. It is easy to wear, instantly recognizable, and quietly elegant. It works as a daily dress watch or as a clean example of 1980s Cartier design. Understated, well balanced, and still doing exactly what a Tank is supposed to do.

 

Every watch we offer has been authenticated and mechanically looked over to ensure immediate usability.

Bracelet extension, cutting, or sizing is available upon request through our professional in-house jewelers.

Key Specs

Reference: 590005

Model: Tank Must

Year: 1980s

Movement: Quartz

Case Size: 23 × 30mm

Bezel: Gold Plated

Bracelet: Leather

Dial: White and grey lacquered

History

Louis Cartier designed the Tank in 1917, inspired by the aerial view of a Renault FT tank on the Western Front — its parallel "rails" mimicking the tracks, its rectangular body echoing the vehicle's profile. The watch was introduced in 1919 and immediately claimed its place as one of the most significant case designs in watchmaking history.

The Tank has never gone out of production, and its list of admirers reads like a century of cultural history: Jackie Kennedy, Andy Warhol, Princess Diana, Yves Saint Laurent. It is the watch of the intelligentsia, the creative, the quietly powerful.

The Tank Must — introduced in the 1970s in vermeil (gold-plated silver) — democratized the design, bringing the silhouette to a new generation. The Tank Louis Cartier in 18-karat gold represents the elevated end. The Tank Solo in stainless steel is the accessible entry point. All three carry the same essential idea: that a rectangle of precious metal can be more beautiful than any complication.


What Our Clients Say About Us

Dan Young
4 months ago

I knew I was gonna like Danny, based on his name, but nothing could’ve prepared me for how great of an experience this was. He had the most beautiful 70s Seamaster Cosmic on his website and I was set to be married 2 days later - I arranged to buy it but before leaving we both realized it needed to be serviced. I panicked, because I was literally buying this for my wedding, and Danny being the legend he is, loaned me a nearly identical Seamaster to make sure I could get through the event Never have I had someone go so above and beyond for me, especially while purchasing one of the lesser priced items in their inventory. He serviced my watch and exchanged it with me after the wedding on a super fast turnaround timeline. I would sincerely recommend you visit this guy, you will not be disappointed Edit: adding a pic of the loaner (two tone) and the owner (crosshair)

Patrick Farella
5 months ago

Great service and shop. Danny and his team were incredibly accommodating, professional, and kind. Great selection of vintage watches. Their store is the hidden gem in the diamond district.

Zee06
2 months ago

This was my first real luxury watch purchase, a Rolex 15200 Date 34mm, I own Tissots and a Laco, but those are entry level luxury watches. I found Danny’s Vintage Watches online, and had great feedback both on Google, Chrono24 and the Reddit watch community. So decided to give him a shot as buying online can be a crap shoot. Ordered Monday night, was at my doorstep Friday morning. Despite the watch being over 30 years old, serial number says it’s from 91, the watch looked new. Didn’t come with box or papers, and was shipped in a plastic sleeve wrapped in bubble wrap. Danny was always available to answer questions. I’ll be buying from Danny again for the next purchase…saw a couple of Speedmasters on his site I liked….

Mohammed Islam
4 months ago

Can't recommend Danny's vintage watches enough!!! My first Omega ever and im in love have been wearing every day since I purchased it. Danny's shop is a must visit if you are in NYC looking for a watch!!!