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Chopard Onyx - Integrated Laykin & Co Stamped Retailer Signature Dial

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A Masterclass In Eighties Opulence

The 1970s and 80s were a playground for Chopard, a period where they moved away from traditional watchmaking constraints to focus on high-concept jewelry pieces that happened to tell time. This Ref. 2036 1 is a heavy hitter from that era. It features a deep, bottomless onyx dial housed in a yellow gold case, but the real draw is the "Retailer Signature" with Laykin & Co. Retailer stamps like this are historical fingerprints; Laykin & Co. was the premier luxury destination at the Fairmont Hotel in Los Angeles, catering to the Hollywood elite. Seeing their name alongside Chopard on a dial like this anchors the watch to a very specific, high-society West Coast history.

Bamboo Gold And Deep Onyx

The design language here is unapologetically bold. The integrated 14K yellow gold bracelet is finished in a "bamboo" style, a texture that was incredibly popular for high-end jewelry-watches during this period because of how it catches the light without looking like a standard flat link. The contrast between the organic, textured gold and the stark, sterile black of the onyx dial creates a balance that feels sophisticated rather than loud. It is a configuration that captures the exact energy of 1980s luxury.

Condition And Reality

The watch is in good, honest condition. The 18K yellow gold case and bezel have maintained their definition, and the integrated bracelet remains structurally sound with a total weight of nearly 100 grams, giving it a significant, high-quality presence on the wrist. The onyx dial is clean, showing no cracks or chips which is the primary concern with stone dials from this era. Mechanically, the movement is running strong after passing our test bench.

Why It Works

This is a piece for the collector who wants something that feels like an artifact. It sits in that perfect pocket of being a serious horological item due to the Chopard pedigree and Laykin & Co. stamp, while functioning primarily as a piece of sculptural jewelry. It works because it doesn't try to be an everyday tool; it is a specialized, era-defining statement that remains wearable today because of its refined proportions and classic color palette. It’s a distinct choice for someone who values provenance and style in equal measure.

 

Key Specs

Reference: 2036 1

Model: Integrated Onyx Dress Watch

Year: 1970s

Movement: Manual Wind (Chopard Calibre)

Case Size: 31mm x 26mm

Bezel: 18K Yellow Gold

Bracelet: 14K Yellow Gold Integrated (Fits 7–7.5in)

Dial: Natural Onyx (Double-Stamped Laykin & Co)

Weight: 99.5g

Scope: Original Chopard Box Included

SKU: 345

History

Chopard was founded in 1860 in Sonvilier, Switzerland, and has been family-owned since Karl Scheufele acquired the company in 1963. The L.U.C division — named after founder Louis-Ulysse Chopard — produces in-house movements of genuine quality. Our vintage inventory includes the St. Moritz skeletonized piece and an LUC Dual Time tank case, alongside Chopard Laykin & Co. double-stamped examples that carry California retail history. These are watches from the era when Chopard was building its reputation as a serious watchmaker alongside its better-known jewelry business.