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Harry Winston Bi-Retrograde - First Series

Details

Yellow Gold Grandeur, Retrograde Mastery

This is a vintage Harry Winston Bi-Retrograde Perpetual Calendar First Series, crafted in the 1990s from solid 18k yellow gold. Measuring 37mm across the case, it is fitted on its original dark blackish-blue leather strap with a signed 18k yellow gold deployant buckle, creating a refined and luxurious presence on the wrist.

Case, Dial & Strap

The elegant yellow gold case houses a crisp white dial with an intricate layout of perpetual calendar functions, including day, date, month, and moonphase. At 6 o’clock, a striking lapis lazuli stone cabochon adds an opulent and unexpected touch of artistry, echoing Harry Winston’s roots in fine jewelry. The strap is original and well-preserved, providing a comfortable fit with its matching gold deployant clasp.

Rarity, Condition & Collectability

The First Series Bi-Retrograde Perpetual Calendar holds a special place in Harry Winston’s horological legacy, representing the brand’s early dedication to haute complications before its later partnerships with independent watchmakers. The retrograde displays paired with a perpetual calendar mechanism reflect both innovation and artistry. This example comes with its original box and a solar-powered watch winder, underscoring its provenance and careful preservation. All parts — crown, dial, movement, and caseback — remain 100% original. The watch has been well maintained and remains in excellent cosmetic and mechanical condition.

Timeless Appeal

Uniting high complication with jewelry-inspired detailing, this Harry Winston is more than a watch — it is a fusion of Swiss horology and New York luxury design. Bold yet elegant, it is perfectly suited to refined occasions, while its rarity and mechanical ingenuity make it a compelling piece for collectors. 

Whether you are a seasoned collector searching for a rare early Harry Winston complication or looking to acquire a perpetual calendar with true design flair, this First Series Bi-Retrograde Perpetual Calendar is a treasure of 1990s watchmaking. 

Key Specs

This watch has been serviced by our in-house watchmaker and comes with a One Year Mechanical Warranty

SKU - 

Crystal - Sapphire

Movement - Automatic

Year - 1990's

Dial color - Cream

Case material - 18K Yellow Gold

Bracelet styles - Original Leather Strap

Case size - 38mm

Bezel type - 18K Yellow Gold

History

Harry Winston, founded in 1932 in New York City by the legendary “King of Diamonds,” quickly became synonymous with bold, elegant, and innovative jewelry designs, revolutionizing how gemstones were set and presented. Building on this legacy of artistry and technical mastery, in 1989 the maison introduced the Bi-Retrograde Perpetual Calendar, a groundbreaking wristwatch complication designed by master watchmakers Jean-Marc Wiederrecht and Roger Dubuis. This innovative timepiece featured dual retrograde displays for the day and date—an unprecedented mechanism at the time—paired with a moonphase indicator and a fully integrated perpetual calendar, all presented on an exquisitely finished dial. The watch combined haute horlogerie engineering with Harry Winston’s signature flair for dramatic, visually captivating design. Its unique retrograde functionality, technical sophistication, and extreme rarity make the Bi-Retrograde Perpetual Calendar a landmark in the history of modern watchmaking and a highly coveted collectible that embodies the maison’s enduring commitment to precision, artistry, and innovation.