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Patek Philippe Calatrava 3563-3 - 18K White Gold, Gubelin Dial

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The Art Of The Second Signature

A retailer's signature on a Patek Philippe dial elevates a watch from a piece of fine watchmaking to a specific historical object. This Calatrava, double-stamped by the legendary Swiss jeweler Gubelin, is a prime example. It represents a time when the relationship between manufacturer and retailer was a true partnership. This signature, placed on a dial with a fine grid texture and housed in a fully integrated white gold case, creates a rare and important configuration that sits at the intersection of horology and high jewelry.

A Study In White Gold Texture

The reference 3563 is not a typical Calatrava. Instead of a simple case on a leather strap, this model features a seamless, integrated design executed entirely in 18K white gold. The bezel flows directly into a finely woven "basket weave" bracelet, creating a continuous piece of jewelry. The dial itself is finished with a precise grid pattern, adding another layer of texture that catches the light. The choice of white gold gives the entire watch a cool, monochromatic tone that emphasizes its intricate construction and finishing.

Honest And Well Preserved

The overall condition of this piece is good. The textured dial is clean, with the Gubelin signature remaining crisp and well-defined. The 18K white gold case and bracelet show wear consistent with age, and the case appears to be unpolished. There is a slight bend in the integrated bracelet, which is not noticeable when the watch is on the wrist. As with every watch we offer, this piece has been verified as mechanically sound and is ready to wear.

Beyond The Standard Dress Watch

This Calatrava is for the collector who understands nuance. It offers the prestige of the Patek Philippe name but with the added layers of a rare retailer signature and an uncommon integrated design. It is more expressive than a standard dress watch, with a tangible sense of late-century luxury. For someone who values texture, provenance, and the weight of solid gold, this is a definitive choice that stands apart from more conservative examples.

Key Specs

Reference: 3563-3

Model: Calatrava

Movement: Automatic

Case Size: 35mm

Bezel: 18K White Gold Integrated

Bracelet: 18K White Gold Integrated "Basket Weave"

Dial: Textured Grid "Gubelin" Double Stamp

Metal: 18K White Gold

Weight: 94.2g

Bracelet Length: Fits 6.5-6.75in

SKU: 742

History

The Calatrava has been the expression of Patek Philippe's dress watch identity since its introduction in 1932. Named after the Cross of Calatrava — the symbol of a twelfth-century Spanish military order that forms the basis of the manufacture's logo — the reference was designed to embody the Bauhaus principle that form follows function in its purest application to the wristwatch. The result was a round case of restrained proportions, a clean dial with minimal text, a thin movement, and a leather strap. Every element that was not necessary to the function of timekeeping was removed, and the case that remained was defined entirely by the quality of what it contained.

The Calatrava's production history is a study in deliberate continuity. Where other manufacturers raced to incorporate new complications and case shapes, Patek Philippe used the Calatrava to demonstrate that a correctly designed object does not require improvement. Reference numbers changed as movements were updated and case dimensions adjusted slightly, but the essential character of the watch — round, thin, restrained, built to last — remained constant from decade to decade. This consistency allowed the watch to accumulate historical depth in a way that more fashionable references could not, and made it the reference against which the quality of other dress watches was measured.

Among collectors, the Calatrava is the definitive Patek Philippe dress watch and the reference that best expresses the manufacture's core proposition: that the highest form of watchmaking is restraint executed to an absolute standard. The vintage examples in yellow gold with sector dials from the 1930s and 1940s represent the apex of collector interest, but strong examples from every subsequent decade carry their own appeal. The Calatrava is the watch for the collector who has decided that the purpose of a timepiece is to tell the time beautifully, and that no further justification is required.

What Our Clients Say About Us

Dan Young
4 months ago

I knew I was gonna like Danny, based on his name, but nothing could’ve prepared me for how great of an experience this was. He had the most beautiful 70s Seamaster Cosmic on his website and I was set to be married 2 days later - I arranged to buy it but before leaving we both realized it needed to be serviced. I panicked, because I was literally buying this for my wedding, and Danny being the legend he is, loaned me a nearly identical Seamaster to make sure I could get through the event Never have I had someone go so above and beyond for me, especially while purchasing one of the lesser priced items in their inventory. He serviced my watch and exchanged it with me after the wedding on a super fast turnaround timeline. I would sincerely recommend you visit this guy, you will not be disappointed Edit: adding a pic of the loaner (two tone) and the owner (crosshair)

Patrick Farella
5 months ago

Great service and shop. Danny and his team were incredibly accommodating, professional, and kind. Great selection of vintage watches. Their store is the hidden gem in the diamond district.

Zee06
2 months ago

This was my first real luxury watch purchase, a Rolex 15200 Date 34mm, I own Tissots and a Laco, but those are entry level luxury watches. I found Danny’s Vintage Watches online, and had great feedback both on Google, Chrono24 and the Reddit watch community. So decided to give him a shot as buying online can be a crap shoot. Ordered Monday night, was at my doorstep Friday morning. Despite the watch being over 30 years old, serial number says it’s from 91, the watch looked new. Didn’t come with box or papers, and was shipped in a plastic sleeve wrapped in bubble wrap. Danny was always available to answer questions. I’ll be buying from Danny again for the next purchase…saw a couple of Speedmasters on his site I liked….

Mohammed Islam
4 months ago

Can't recommend Danny's vintage watches enough!!! My first Omega ever and im in love have been wearing every day since I purchased it. Danny's shop is a must visit if you are in NYC looking for a watch!!!