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Patek Philippe Ellipse 3748 - Blue Sunburst Dial

Details

It's not the base model

This Patek Philippe Ellipse from the 1970s sits in the higher tier of the model’s range. Yellow gold case, integrated gold bracelet, and a deep blue dial set with diamond indices. It’s not just a standard Ellipse — it’s the more expressive version that Patek reserved for clients who wanted refinement with presence.

Why this configuration stands out

The blue dial is what anchors it. Ellipse blues are already desirable; adding factory diamond indices shifts the watch into a narrower category. The stones don’t overpower the dial. They sharpen it. Against the rich blue surface and warm yellow gold case, the result feels deliberate and balanced.

The integrated 18K yellow gold bracelet completes the watch the way Patek intended. These weren’t strap pieces adapted to gold bracelets later. They were conceived as unified objects, case and bracelet working together in proportion and tone.

Condition is key

The dial is in great shape and presents cleanly. The case remains very good overall. The bracelet shows more wear than the head and has a bend on the upper side that is not noticeable on the wrist. It remains fully functional and wearable as is. Mechanically, it’s running strong and ready for the next owner after passing by our test bench. 

A serious 1970s Ellipse

This is not an entry Ellipse. Gold bracelet, blue dial, diamond markers — it’s a higher-spec example from a period when Patek produced these in far smaller numbers than people realize.

For someone building depth into a vintage Patek collection, this sits comfortably above the standard variants. Distinct without being loud, and far less common than the simpler executions.

Key Specs

Reference: 3748

Model: Ellipse

Year: 1970s

Movement: Manual wind

Case Size: 27 × 32mm

Bezel: 18K yellow gold


Bracelet: Integrated 18K yellow gold

Dial: Blue with diamond indices

Wrist Size: Fits 6.75–7 inches

SKU: 267

History

In 1968, Patek Philippe introduced the Golden Ellipse — a watch whose case dimensions were derived from the golden ratio, the mathematical proportion found in classical architecture and nature. The result is a case that looks neither circular nor rectangular but occupies a gravitational middle ground that is immediately recognizable and impossible to imitate convincingly.

The Ellipse arrived at the right moment: the late 1960s were a time of geometric experimentation in watchmaking, but most attempts at "design watches" aged badly. The Ellipse aged better than almost anything from its era because its proportions were grounded in mathematics rather than trend.

References across our inventory span the 1970s through 1990s: ref 3566, 3567, 3748, 4266/905, and various numbered references in yellow gold, white gold, and platinum. Dials in blue, brown, onyx, champagne, and malachite all appear. The integrated bracelet versions are particularly prized — a Patek with a bracelet is a rare and serious thing.