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Patek Philippe Ellipse - Diamond Bezel Blue Sunburst Dial

Details

A White Gold Masterpiece

The Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse is a masterclass in proportional design, famously based on the "Golden Ratio." While the reference 3748 is a staple of the 1980s, this specific execution in 18k white gold shifts the watch from traditional warmth to a much cooler, more modern aesthetic. The deep blue sunburst dial is a Patek signature, but here it is elevated by factory diamond hour markers. It is a configuration that balances the technical restraint of the Ellipse silhouette with the unapologetic luxury of precious stones and metals.

A Study In Material Integrity

The presence of "Sigma" markings at the bottom of the dial confirms that the hands and the settings for the diamond hour markers are crafted from solid gold. This detail matters to collectors as it signifies a period when Patek Philippe prioritized material density and long-term value in every component. The 29mm case features a factory diamond-set bezel that perfectly frames the blue dial, creating a cohesive light play between the white gold, the brilliant-cut stones, and the sunburst finish. It is a high-jewelry execution that remains remarkably thin, sitting flush against the wrist as only a Patek can.

Exceptional Preservation And Integrated Finish

This example is in very good condition, showing a level of care that is rare for a forty-year-old timepiece. The 18k white gold case maintains its original lines and the factory diamond setting remains tight and brilliant. The integrated white gold bracelet is in great shape, retaining its suppleness and original textured finish. The blue Sigma dial is clean, with no oxidation or fading, and the sapphire crystal is flawless. Mechanically, the manual-wind movement is running strong after passing our test bench, offering a tactile connection to the watch every time it is wound.

The Peak Of 1980s Elegance That Still Works Today

This is a watch for the collector who wants a Patek Philippe that stands apart from the ubiquitous steel sports models. It is a piece of formal jewelry that happens to be one of the most historically significant designs in horology. The combination of white gold, a diamond bezel, and a blue stone-adjacent dial makes it a sophisticated outlier. It is a quiet power statement that works perfectly as a dedicated dress watch or a high-end daily accessory for those who appreciate the finer details of the 1980s catalog.

Key Specs

Reference: 3748/009

Model: Ellipse

Year: 1980s

Movement: Manual

Case Size: 29mm

Bezel: Diamond-Set 18K WG

Bracelet: 18K WG Integrated

Dial: Blue with Diamond Indices

Metal: 18K WG

SKU: 295

History

In 1968, Patek Philippe introduced the Golden Ellipse — a watch whose case dimensions were derived from the golden ratio, the mathematical proportion found in classical architecture and nature. The result is a case that looks neither circular nor rectangular but occupies a gravitational middle ground that is immediately recognizable and impossible to imitate convincingly.

The Ellipse arrived at the right moment: the late 1960s were a time of geometric experimentation in watchmaking, but most attempts at "design watches" aged badly. The Ellipse aged better than almost anything from its era because its proportions were grounded in mathematics rather than trend.

References across our inventory span the 1970s through 1990s: ref 3566, 3567, 3748, 4266/905, and various numbered references in yellow gold, white gold, and platinum. Dials in blue, brown, onyx, champagne, and malachite all appear. The integrated bracelet versions are particularly prized — a Patek with a bracelet is a rare and serious thing.


What Our Clients Say About Us

Dan Young
4 months ago

I knew I was gonna like Danny, based on his name, but nothing could’ve prepared me for how great of an experience this was. He had the most beautiful 70s Seamaster Cosmic on his website and I was set to be married 2 days later - I arranged to buy it but before leaving we both realized it needed to be serviced. I panicked, because I was literally buying this for my wedding, and Danny being the legend he is, loaned me a nearly identical Seamaster to make sure I could get through the event Never have I had someone go so above and beyond for me, especially while purchasing one of the lesser priced items in their inventory. He serviced my watch and exchanged it with me after the wedding on a super fast turnaround timeline. I would sincerely recommend you visit this guy, you will not be disappointed Edit: adding a pic of the loaner (two tone) and the owner (crosshair)

Patrick Farella
5 months ago

Great service and shop. Danny and his team were incredibly accommodating, professional, and kind. Great selection of vintage watches. Their store is the hidden gem in the diamond district.

Zee06
2 months ago

This was my first real luxury watch purchase, a Rolex 15200 Date 34mm, I own Tissots and a Laco, but those are entry level luxury watches. I found Danny’s Vintage Watches online, and had great feedback both on Google, Chrono24 and the Reddit watch community. So decided to give him a shot as buying online can be a crap shoot. Ordered Monday night, was at my doorstep Friday morning. Despite the watch being over 30 years old, serial number says it’s from 91, the watch looked new. Didn’t come with box or papers, and was shipped in a plastic sleeve wrapped in bubble wrap. Danny was always available to answer questions. I’ll be buying from Danny again for the next purchase…saw a couple of Speedmasters on his site I liked….

Mohammed Islam
4 months ago

Can't recommend Danny's vintage watches enough!!! My first Omega ever and im in love have been wearing every day since I purchased it. Danny's shop is a must visit if you are in NYC looking for a watch!!!