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Patek Philippe Nautilus 3800/3 - 18K Yellow Gold Gilt Dial Factory Diamond Bezel

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The Mid-Size Evolution Of An Iconic Silhouette

Gérald Genta's legendary 1976 Nautilus design permanently transformed the landscape of luxury watchmaking, establishing a bold, industrial design language centered around its iconic "porthole" case architecture. Introduced in 1981 as a mid-size counterpart to the original "Jumbo" reference 3700, the reference 3800 delivered a more tailored 37.5mm footprint without sacrificing an ounce of the model's visual power. Executed entirely in solid 18k yellow gold in 1987, this piece represents the absolute pinnacle of 1980s executive luxury, translating a sporting legend into a heavy, uncompromised precious metal statement.

Factory Diamond Splendor And A Warm Gilt Canvas

What elevates this specific reference 3800 into an exceptionally rare tier of vintage collecting is the "/3" suffix, designating an authentic factory diamond-set bezel. Patek Philippe's master gem-setters seamlessly integrated a row of brilliant-cut diamonds directly into the octagonal bezel, accentuating the signature side ears and geometric contours of the case. The dial features a warm, gilt champagne finish with classic horizontal embossing, creating a rich, monochromatic interplay of gold tones that catches light from every angle. It bridges the gap between high-grade mechanical watchmaking and elite haute joaillerie.

Remarkable Preservation And Substantial Weight

Condition: Very Good. The solid 18k yellow gold case and integrated bracelet have been exceptionally well-preserved, retaining sharp industrial bevels, uniform satin brushing across the surfaces, and crisp polished accents. The factory-set diamonds remain entirely immaculate, seated firmly in their original settings. Weighing a substantial 132.3 grams, the watch carries an impressive physical heft on the wrist that underscores its solid precious metal construction. The integrated 18k yellow gold bracelet shows minimal age-appropriate drape, comfortably accommodating a wrist size up to 7 inches. The case details feature crisp serial stampings (2827091), verifying its 1987 production origin.

A Grail-Tier Masterpiece From The Golden Era

The reference 3800/3 is a timepiece built for the discerning collector who seeks the unmistakable pedigree of the Nautilus elevated by factory gem-setting rarity. Powered by Patek Philippe's ultra-thin automatic movement, it preserves the slender, low-profile ergonomics that allow the watch to slide fluidly beneath a tailored cuff while commanding instant authority when unveiled. Clean, heavy, and increasingly difficult to source in factory diamond configurations, it stands as an elite, museum-grade cornerstone for any world-class collection.

 

Key Specs

Reference: 3800/3
Model: Nautilus
Year: 1987
Movement: Automatic
Case Size: 37.5mm
Bezel: Factory Diamond Set
Bracelet: 18K Yellow Gold
Bracelet Length: Fits approx. 7.0 inches
Dial: Gilt Champagne
Material: 18K Yellow Gold
Weight: 132.3g
SKU: 1419

What Our Clients Say About Us

Dan Young
4 months ago

I knew I was gonna like Danny, based on his name, but nothing could’ve prepared me for how great of an experience this was. He had the most beautiful 70s Seamaster Cosmic on his website and I was set to be married 2 days later - I arranged to buy it but before leaving we both realized it needed to be serviced. I panicked, because I was literally buying this for my wedding, and Danny being the legend he is, loaned me a nearly identical Seamaster to make sure I could get through the event Never have I had someone go so above and beyond for me, especially while purchasing one of the lesser priced items in their inventory. He serviced my watch and exchanged it with me after the wedding on a super fast turnaround timeline. I would sincerely recommend you visit this guy, you will not be disappointed Edit: adding a pic of the loaner (two tone) and the owner (crosshair)

Patrick Farella
5 months ago

Great service and shop. Danny and his team were incredibly accommodating, professional, and kind. Great selection of vintage watches. Their store is the hidden gem in the diamond district.

Zee06
2 months ago

This was my first real luxury watch purchase, a Rolex 15200 Date 34mm, I own Tissots and a Laco, but those are entry level luxury watches. I found Danny’s Vintage Watches online, and had great feedback both on Google, Chrono24 and the Reddit watch community. So decided to give him a shot as buying online can be a crap shoot. Ordered Monday night, was at my doorstep Friday morning. Despite the watch being over 30 years old, serial number says it’s from 91, the watch looked new. Didn’t come with box or papers, and was shipped in a plastic sleeve wrapped in bubble wrap. Danny was always available to answer questions. I’ll be buying from Danny again for the next purchase…saw a couple of Speedmasters on his site I liked….

Mohammed Islam
4 months ago

Can't recommend Danny's vintage watches enough!!! My first Omega ever and im in love have been wearing every day since I purchased it. Danny's shop is a must visit if you are in NYC looking for a watch!!!