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Patek Philippe 3859/1 - Onyx & Mother of Pearl

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When the stone execution is equally as impressive as the integrated band

This Patek Philippe from the 1980s sits in a category the brand rarely explored and almost never in large numbers. Solid 18k yellow gold, fully integrated construction, and a hard-stone dial execution that feels more jewelry atelier than traditional dress watch.

Why this configuration matters

The dial is the anchor. Onyx paired with mother of pearl gives the watch contrast without excess. Deep black against soft iridescence, framed in yellow gold, creates a composition that feels architectural rather than decorative. It’s not a loud stone watch. It’s controlled.

The integrated 18k bracelet is equally important. These pieces were designed as complete objects, not head-and-strap combinations. Bracelet and case flow as one unit, giving the watch weight and presence that strap examples never achieve. Many were worn hard. Fewer remain this intact.

Straight on condition

Overall condition is strong. The dial is flawless. Case and bracelet present very well and are unpolished. The bracelet has been extended in the past. Mechanically, the manual-wind movement is running very well after passing by the test bench.

A rarer side of Patek

This is not a Calatrava. It’s Patek in a more design-driven moment, when integrated gold and stone dials were produced in limited quantities and aimed at a specific clientele.

For someone who understands 1980s Patek beyond the obvious references, the 3859/1 delivers weight, originality, and a configuration that doesn’t surface often in this condition.

Key Specs

Reference: 3859/1

Year: 1980s

Movement: Manual wind

Case Size: 27 × 27mm

Bezel: 18k yellow gold (integrated)

Bracelet: Integrated 18k yellow gold

Dial: Onyx and mother of pearl

Wrist Size: Fits 7–7.25 inches

SKU: 298

History

Antoine Norbert de Patek and Franciszek Czapek established a watchmaking firm in Geneva in 1839.  Czapek left the partnership a few years later, and in 1844 Patek met the French watchmaker Jean Adrien Philippe, who had invented a keyless winding mechanism.  Philippe joined the firm, and by 1851 it traded under the name Patek, Philippe & Cie .  The company built its reputation on refined craftsmanship and technical innovation, filing more than a hundred patents over the decades for mechanisms such as the keyless winding system and slip‑spring barrel .  Patek Philippe remained independent under the Stern family from the early 20th century, giving it the freedom to pursue long‑term excellence rather than trends .

In the early years Patek Philippe concentrated on pocket watches and complex mechanisms.  The firm gradually shifted to wristwatches in the early 20th century and introduced elegantly simple round pieces that have become templates for dress watches.  After the Stern family acquired the company in 1932, they reinforced the brand’s emphasis on quality and vertical integration: movements, cases, dials and bracelets were all produced to the highest standard.  Over the years Patek Philippe introduced pioneering complications such as the perpetual calendar, minute repeater and split‑seconds chronograph, while the Calatrava cross became its enduring emblem .  Remaining in family ownership has allowed the company to maintain consistency and resist pressures to over‑industrialise.

Today Patek Philippe is known for balancing tradition with measured innovation.  Its workshop in Geneva continues to produce everything from ultra‑simple two‑hand watches to grand complications, always with an emphasis on finishing and timeless design.  Collectors value the brand for its heritage, the continuity of family ownership and the level of craft that goes into each piece.  Whether it is a simple time‑only dress watch or a complicated perpetual calendar, Patek Philippe’s watches are sought for the way they distil generations of watchmaking knowledge into objects of discreet beauty.

Patek Philippe 3859/1 - Onyx & Mother of Pearl
Patek Philippe 3859/1 - Onyx & Mother of Pearl Sale price$27,500.00 USD

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Dan Young
4 months ago

I knew I was gonna like Danny, based on his name, but nothing could’ve prepared me for how great of an experience this was. He had the most beautiful 70s Seamaster Cosmic on his website and I was set to be married 2 days later - I arranged to buy it but before leaving we both realized it needed to be serviced. I panicked, because I was literally buying this for my wedding, and Danny being the legend he is, loaned me a nearly identical Seamaster to make sure I could get through the event Never have I had someone go so above and beyond for me, especially while purchasing one of the lesser priced items in their inventory. He serviced my watch and exchanged it with me after the wedding on a super fast turnaround timeline. I would sincerely recommend you visit this guy, you will not be disappointed Edit: adding a pic of the loaner (two tone) and the owner (crosshair)

Patrick Farella
5 months ago

Great service and shop. Danny and his team were incredibly accommodating, professional, and kind. Great selection of vintage watches. Their store is the hidden gem in the diamond district.

Zee06
2 months ago

This was my first real luxury watch purchase, a Rolex 15200 Date 34mm, I own Tissots and a Laco, but those are entry level luxury watches. I found Danny’s Vintage Watches online, and had great feedback both on Google, Chrono24 and the Reddit watch community. So decided to give him a shot as buying online can be a crap shoot. Ordered Monday night, was at my doorstep Friday morning. Despite the watch being over 30 years old, serial number says it’s from 91, the watch looked new. Didn’t come with box or papers, and was shipped in a plastic sleeve wrapped in bubble wrap. Danny was always available to answer questions. I’ll be buying from Danny again for the next purchase…saw a couple of Speedmasters on his site I liked….

Mohammed Islam
4 months ago

Can't recommend Danny's vintage watches enough!!! My first Omega ever and im in love have been wearing every day since I purchased it. Danny's shop is a must visit if you are in NYC looking for a watch!!!