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Piaget Protocole 9154 - 18K Yellow Gold Tiger Eye & Onyx Stone Dial Retailed by Jean Été

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Details
The Watch As A Canvas
In the 1960s and 70s, Piaget redefined the luxury dress watch by treating it as an object of design first and a time-telling instrument second. This was made possible by the house's mastery of ultra-thin movements, which freed up space for dials cut from solid stone and cases shaped with a jeweler's sensibility. The Protocole was a key model from this period, a rectangular canvas that perfectly captured the brand's pivot from a movement specialist to a master of material craft and form. It represents a moment when design drove innovation.
Tiger's Eye And Onyx Dial With A Paris Retailer Signature
The defining feature of this Protocole is its dial, a tiger's eye center framed by a black outer band of onyx stone. The natural chatoyancy of the tiger's eye creates a deep, shifting pattern of gold and brown bands, making each example unique. This particular watch carries a second point of interest: the case back is engraved Jean Été, Paris, the retailer that sold it. The combination of a sought-after stone dial with a retailer's signature elevates the piece, grounding it in a specific time and place. It's a configuration that appeals to collectors who track these subtle but significant details.
A Clean Stone And Sharp Case
This example presents in Very Good Vintage Condition, with a solid 18K yellow gold case that retains its sharp, defined lines and original finish. The tiger's eye center shows the full depth and movement of its natural banding, set against the black onyx stone outer band. It comes fitted to its original black alligator strap, complete with the correct Piaget-signed 18K gold buckle. As with every watch we offer, this piece has been verified as mechanically sound and is ready to wear.
A Design That Transcends Its Era
The appeal of a watch like this is rooted in its materials and craft. The skill required to cut and set a stone dial of this size isn't easily found today, making vintage examples like this difficult to replace. Its proportions feel as correct now as they did in the 1970s, offering a rectangular dress watch that makes a statement through its substance rather than its size. It's a piece that holds its value because its core attributes, goldsmithing, lapidary work, and confident design, are no longer common practice.
Key Specs
Reference: 9154
Model: Jean Été Retailed Protocole
Era: 1970s
Movement: Manual Wind
Case Size: 25mm x 27mm (Excluding Crown)
Bezel: 18K Yellow Gold
Strap: Original Black Alligator
Dial: Tiger's Eye Stone, Onyx Stone
Metal: 18K Yellow Gold
Weight: 28.3g
SKU: 1901
Fit & Customization
This watch should feel like it was made for your wrist from the moment you put it on. That's why we offer:
  • Strap Customization: Any two-piece strap swapped and custom-fitted in your choice of material, color, and length
  • Standard Bracelet Sizing: Precise link additions or removals to achieve your exact fit
  • Integrated Bracelet Sizing: A bespoke service few boutiques are equipped to handle
  • Custom Caseback Engraving: Personalize your watch with initials, dates, or custom text engraved on the caseback
Contact us about this item or your order, and we'll take it from there.