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Ulysse Nardin Michelangelo – 18K Yellow Gold Moonphase

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Details

A Rare Configuration In Solid Gold

The Ulysse Nardin Michelangelo is a reference that rarely surfaces. While its tonneau-shaped case is a hallmark of the 1990s collection, finding an example with a factory-integrated 18K yellow gold bracelet is nearly impossible. Our research indicates that this version is virtually undocumented online, making it an exceptionally rare find for a collector focused on the brand's revival era. The weight of the 18K gold combined with the seamless flow of the bracelet creates a presence that is far more substantial than the more common leather-strapped versions.

The Complexity Of Mother Of Pearl

The dial features a Mother of Pearl moonphase that adds a layer of organic texture to the crisp white face. Ulysse Nardin has a long heritage of astronomical complications and this watch is a refined example of that history. The moonphase is integrated into a dial layout that remains balanced and legible despite the mechanical complexity involved. It represents an era where the brand was focused on creating high-concept designs that functioned as modern interpretations of classic horology.

Excellent Preservation And Factory Integrity

The watch is in overall very good condition with a mint dial and a crystal that is free of scratches. The 18K yellow gold case shows honest signs of use consistent with its age and appears to have had a light polish on the back and sides. The integrated gold bracelet is in very good shape and maintains its structural integrity. It's a factory-stamped piece that feels robust on the wrist. Mechanically, the automatic movement is running strong after passing our test bench.

The Collector's Ultimate Deviation

This watch works because it offers a level of exclusivity that is difficult to find. It's for the person who values a piece that is essentially unobtainable and stands apart from the standard luxury market.

Key Specs

Reference: 161-42

Model: Michelangelo Triple Calendar Moonphase

Year: 1990s

Movement: Automatic (Cal. 15-7)

Case Size: 29mm x 33mm

Bezel: Integrated 18K Yellow Gold

Bracelet: Integrated 18K Yellow Gold (Fits up to 7.75in)

Dial: White with Mother of Pearl Moonphase & Sub-dials

Metal: 18K Yellow Gold

Weight: 96.6g

SKU: 598

History

The Michelangelo collection was produced during a pivotal period in Ulysse Nardin's history. The brand, founded in Le Locle in 1846 and built on a reputation for marine chronometers and precision instruments, had faced the structural pressures of the quartz crisis alongside every other traditional Swiss manufacturer. The arrival of Rolf Schnyder as owner in 1983 initiated a dramatic repositioning of the brand, with the focus shifted toward high-complication mechanical watchmaking that would demonstrate Ulysse Nardin's technical capabilities to a new generation of collectors. The Michelangelo collection, introduced in the 1980s and produced through the 1990s, was among the dress watch lines developed during this revival era.

The Michelangelo took its name from the Renaissance sculptor and painter, following the brand's practice of naming complications and collection lines after figures who represented mastery in their fields. The tonneau-shaped case — a curved, barrel-like form that had been associated with formal watchmaking since the early twentieth century — was the defining visual element of the collection, distinguishing it from the round case shapes that dominated the market during the same period. Within the tonneau format, Ulysse Nardin applied the complications that the brand had specialized in: moon phases, triple calendars, and perpetual calendars executed with the precision that the manufacture's chronometer heritage demanded.

For collectors focused on the brand's revival era, the Michelangelo collection represents some of the most specialized and difficult-to-source material in the Ulysse Nardin catalog. The integrated gold bracelet versions in particular were produced in limited quantities and rarely appear on the secondary market in any form. The combination of the tonneau case, the moon phase complication, and the precious metal integrated bracelet creates a configuration that is technically sophisticated, visually distinctive, and genuinely rare — the combination of qualities that defines the most interesting material in the vintage market.

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Dan Young
4 months ago

I knew I was gonna like Danny, based on his name, but nothing could’ve prepared me for how great of an experience this was. He had the most beautiful 70s Seamaster Cosmic on his website and I was set to be married 2 days later - I arranged to buy it but before leaving we both realized it needed to be serviced. I panicked, because I was literally buying this for my wedding, and Danny being the legend he is, loaned me a nearly identical Seamaster to make sure I could get through the event Never have I had someone go so above and beyond for me, especially while purchasing one of the lesser priced items in their inventory. He serviced my watch and exchanged it with me after the wedding on a super fast turnaround timeline. I would sincerely recommend you visit this guy, you will not be disappointed Edit: adding a pic of the loaner (two tone) and the owner (crosshair)

Patrick Farella
5 months ago

Great service and shop. Danny and his team were incredibly accommodating, professional, and kind. Great selection of vintage watches. Their store is the hidden gem in the diamond district.

Zee06
2 months ago

This was my first real luxury watch purchase, a Rolex 15200 Date 34mm, I own Tissots and a Laco, but those are entry level luxury watches. I found Danny’s Vintage Watches online, and had great feedback both on Google, Chrono24 and the Reddit watch community. So decided to give him a shot as buying online can be a crap shoot. Ordered Monday night, was at my doorstep Friday morning. Despite the watch being over 30 years old, serial number says it’s from 91, the watch looked new. Didn’t come with box or papers, and was shipped in a plastic sleeve wrapped in bubble wrap. Danny was always available to answer questions. I’ll be buying from Danny again for the next purchase…saw a couple of Speedmasters on his site I liked….

Mohammed Islam
4 months ago

Can't recommend Danny's vintage watches enough!!! My first Omega ever and im in love have been wearing every day since I purchased it. Danny's shop is a must visit if you are in NYC looking for a watch!!!