page transition image
Skip to content

Cart

Your cart is empty

Universal Geneve Polerouter 20217-5 - Stainless Steel Tropical Dial

Trade In
Details

The First Design From A Master

 

The Polerouter is a foundational watch for any serious collector. It was the first commercial success for a young Gérald Genta, who was commissioned by Universal Geneve to design a watch for Scandinavian Airlines pilots flying the new, magnetically treacherous route over the North Pole. The result was a masterclass in mid-century design, combining elegant twisted lugs with a highly legible and functional dial. This reference, the 20217-5, captures the essence of that original vision.

 

 

A Study In Subtle Patina

 

The defining feature of this watch is its tropical dial. The original black surface has aged into a warm, organic tone that is unique to this specific piece. Unlike examples with heavy, dramatic patina, this dial shows a more restrained and even aging process. It offers the character and depth that collectors seek in a tropical dial, but with a subtlety that makes it exceptionally clean and versatile on the wrist. It is a distinct look for someone who appreciates the story of age without overwhelming visual noise.

 

 

Good, Honest Condition

 

This Polerouter is in good, honest condition. The stainless steel case appears unpolished and is well-preserved, retaining strong original lines. The crystal and the dial are also in good condition. The watch shows wear consistent with its age, presenting as a clean and authentic example of this classic reference. As with every watch we offer, this piece has been verified as mechanically sound and is ready to wear.

 

 

The Thinking Collector's Choice

 

This watch works because it carries immense design history in an understated 35mm package. The Genta association alone makes it a significant piece, but the addition of a naturally aged tropical dial elevates it further. It is a choice for the collector who values design purity and the organic beauty of a watch that has aged gracefully. It offers a story and a level of sophistication that modern watches struggle to replicate.

 

 

Key Specs

 

Reference: 20217-5

Model: Polerouter

Year: 1960s

Movement: Automatic

Case Size: 35mm

Bezel: Stainless Steel

Dial: Tropical

Metal: Stainless Steel

SKU: 1257

What Our Clients Say About Us

Dan Young
4 months ago

I knew I was gonna like Danny, based on his name, but nothing could’ve prepared me for how great of an experience this was. He had the most beautiful 70s Seamaster Cosmic on his website and I was set to be married 2 days later - I arranged to buy it but before leaving we both realized it needed to be serviced. I panicked, because I was literally buying this for my wedding, and Danny being the legend he is, loaned me a nearly identical Seamaster to make sure I could get through the event Never have I had someone go so above and beyond for me, especially while purchasing one of the lesser priced items in their inventory. He serviced my watch and exchanged it with me after the wedding on a super fast turnaround timeline. I would sincerely recommend you visit this guy, you will not be disappointed Edit: adding a pic of the loaner (two tone) and the owner (crosshair)

Patrick Farella
5 months ago

Great service and shop. Danny and his team were incredibly accommodating, professional, and kind. Great selection of vintage watches. Their store is the hidden gem in the diamond district.

Zee06
2 months ago

This was my first real luxury watch purchase, a Rolex 15200 Date 34mm, I own Tissots and a Laco, but those are entry level luxury watches. I found Danny’s Vintage Watches online, and had great feedback both on Google, Chrono24 and the Reddit watch community. So decided to give him a shot as buying online can be a crap shoot. Ordered Monday night, was at my doorstep Friday morning. Despite the watch being over 30 years old, serial number says it’s from 91, the watch looked new. Didn’t come with box or papers, and was shipped in a plastic sleeve wrapped in bubble wrap. Danny was always available to answer questions. I’ll be buying from Danny again for the next purchase…saw a couple of Speedmasters on his site I liked….

Mohammed Islam
4 months ago

Can't recommend Danny's vintage watches enough!!! My first Omega ever and im in love have been wearing every day since I purchased it. Danny's shop is a must visit if you are in NYC looking for a watch!!!