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Universal Geneve Polerouter Date - 18K Yellow Gold Champagne Bullseye Dial

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Details
Genta's First Masterpiece, In Gold
The Polerouter is a foundational piece of watch design history. Gérald Genta was twenty three when Universal Genève handed him the commission, decades before the Royal Oak and the Nautilus made his name unavoidable. The brief was practical: Scandinavian Airlines had begun flying the polar route over the Arctic and needed a watch that would survive the magnetic fields up there, so the Polerouter arrived in 1954 built as an anti-magnetic tool. Almost all of them left the factory in steel because that is what a sport watch was supposed to be. Solid gold cases were the exception, produced in a fraction of the numbers, and they turn Genta's tool watch into something else entirely.
A Perfect Dial In A Rare Case
Two hard things line up on this one. The case is 18K yellow gold, the configuration collectors chase and rarely find, and the champagne bullseye dial is flawless, with the concentric ring at the centre still cleanly defined and the outer track sharp. Bullseye dials are the first thing to go on these, usually to moisture or a careless refinish, so a perfect one carries most of the value. Gold also changes how the 33mm case wears, adding weight and warmth that the steel versions simply cannot produce.
A Minty Gold Case And An Untouched Dial
Good condition throughout, and unusually clean for a watch of this age. The gold case is unpolished, holding sharp lines and edges with only the wear a sixty-year-old case should carry, which matters because gold cannot be refinished repeatedly without losing its shape. The champagne bullseye dial is perfect and original. As with every watch we offer, this piece has been verified as mechanically sound and is ready to wear.
Genta, Gold, And A Perfect Dial
Genta's signature is on the Nautilus, the Royal Oak, and the Ingenieur, and every one of those now costs multiples of what a Polerouter does. This is the watch he drew first, in the metal he used least, with the dial variant collectors argue about most. Buying a solid gold bullseye Polerouter is buying the front end of that career rather than the famous back end, and the champagne dial does the work in person that photographs never quite capture. Worn on leather at 33mm, it reads as a dress watch with an aviation résumé, which is a combination almost nothing else offers.
Key Specs
Model: Polerouter Date
Year: 1960s
Movement: Automatic
Case Size: 33mm
Bezel: 18K Yellow Gold
Bracelet: Leather
Dial: Champagne Bullseye
Metal: 18K Yellow Gold
SKU: 1517

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Dan Young
4 months ago

I knew I was gonna like Danny, based on his name, but nothing could’ve prepared me for how great of an experience this was. He had the most beautiful 70s Seamaster Cosmic on his website and I was set to be married 2 days later - I arranged to buy it but before leaving we both realized it needed to be serviced. I panicked, because I was literally buying this for my wedding, and Danny being the legend he is, loaned me a nearly identical Seamaster to make sure I could get through the event Never have I had someone go so above and beyond for me, especially while purchasing one of the lesser priced items in their inventory. He serviced my watch and exchanged it with me after the wedding on a super fast turnaround timeline. I would sincerely recommend you visit this guy, you will not be disappointed Edit: adding a pic of the loaner (two tone) and the owner (crosshair)

Patrick Farella
5 months ago

Great service and shop. Danny and his team were incredibly accommodating, professional, and kind. Great selection of vintage watches. Their store is the hidden gem in the diamond district.

Zee06
2 months ago

This was my first real luxury watch purchase, a Rolex 15200 Date 34mm, I own Tissots and a Laco, but those are entry level luxury watches. I found Danny’s Vintage Watches online, and had great feedback both on Google, Chrono24 and the Reddit watch community. So decided to give him a shot as buying online can be a crap shoot. Ordered Monday night, was at my doorstep Friday morning. Despite the watch being over 30 years old, serial number says it’s from 91, the watch looked new. Didn’t come with box or papers, and was shipped in a plastic sleeve wrapped in bubble wrap. Danny was always available to answer questions. I’ll be buying from Danny again for the next purchase…saw a couple of Speedmasters on his site I liked….

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4 months ago

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